KAMPUNG Baru is where I can find lots of eateries, especially those that cook up yummy Malay food (nasi lemak, nasi lemak and nasi lemak!). Other than this, my knowledge of this village in the city is scant.
Well, what I’m about to experience today in Kampung Baru will be truly different. It won’t be just the food. The Jalan-Jalan @ Kampung Baru tour will give me a glimpse into the life of urban villagers who live in a kampung that sits practically at the foot of Petronas Twin Towers.
Hardly a month old, the free two-hour, fully-guided walk gives an insight into the other side of the concrete jungle. Initiated by City Hall, the walk was launched by Mayor Datuk Seri Ahmad Phesal Talib last month.
Excited and all geared up with comfortable walking shoes, I make my way to Sultan Sulaiman Club at the intersection of Jalan Raja Alang and Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman. Since I’m not familiar with the area, I give myself ample time as I don’t want to miss the 4.30pm tour. It’s a sunny day, perfect weather for the walk.
At the club lobby, a tall woman in a white shirt and a red vest with a Jalan-Jalan @ Kampong Baru sign is waiting.
“Hi there, I’m Jane and I’m be your guide today,” she introduces herself. While waiting for more participants, she offers some background on the city’s last hold-out against the encroaching city.
Kampung Baru was founded in 1899 to accommodate the increasing number of Malay farmers. Today, it still remains as a Malay neighbourhood that has kept its rustic feel. It’s amazing to see the city developing, yet having pockets of typical village scenes still.
4.30PM: SULTAN SULaIMAN CLUB
At 4.30pm sharp, we start the tour from the club, built in1901, by the residents association in the newly established Malay settlement in Kampung Baru which was at that time known as Malay Agricultural Settlement.
“It started with just a small wooden hut with an attap roof but has undergone three renovations since,” says Jane, adding that the club is exclusively for members only.
4.35PM: MASTER MAT’S HOUSE
Behind the club is a typical traditional Malay house owned by Ahmad Mohamed (more popularly known as Master Mat), a respected former headmaster of an English school in Setapak, Kuala Lumpur.
Built in 1921, the Malay-palladian style house is raised on stone pillars with concrete balustrade staircase. It is one of the traditional houses here that still preserves its traditional beauty.
“The Malays remove their footwear before entering a house,” says Jane, clarifying that the practice is to maintain the cleanliness of the interior.
4.50PM: SULTAN SULaIMAN CLUB
GALLERY
Three minutes from Master Mat’s house is the Sultan Sulaiman Club Gallery, designed to replicate the Sultan Sulaiman Club.
A traditional wooden house with white paint, it is located just behind a wide green field and opened in late 2007 to showcase the history of the Malay political struggle from the early beginnings.
5.15PM: MALAY FOOD
The most popular road in Kampung Baru is Jalan Raja Muda Musa, famous for its Malay food such as nasi Padang, ikan bakar, nasi lemak, satay, traditional cakes and more.
As I walk down the road, I can’t help but think what I’d like for dinner tonight!
5.30PM: RUMAH LIMAS
An hour has gone by, and the tour is now at the fifth attraction - Rumah Limas (Limas is the Malay word for the pyramid shape of a thatched roof).
“Built in 1913, the house is one of the biggest existing traditional Malay houses in this area,” says Jane.
Although it has undergone several renovations, the house still has a touch of colonial-Malay hybrid design.
5.50PM: FORMER SATURDAY NIGHT MARKET SITE
The Saturday night market used to be on Jalan Raja Muda Musa before it was moved to Lorong Tuanku Abdul Rahman. But it is still bustling with businesses which include a few Malay tailors, songkok makers, barbers, cobblers and wedding planners.
In the 1930s, this area was the main social and meeting point for the Malays.
6.05PM: MASJID JAMEK
Masjid Jamek Kampung Baru is one of the notable mosques in Kuala Lumpur. You will not miss the sight of this grand mosque if you pass the area.
Majestically located at the junction of Jalan Raja Alang and Jalan Raja Abdullah, it has been a Muslim community centre for well over a century since its founding in the 1880s by Malay trader Elias Abdullah.
“It used to be a small house made of wood and bamboo for worship, now it is beautifully built with exquisite mosaic and incorporates Mughal and Malay elements,” says Jane.
The mosque is not only a place to pray. During Ramadan, the mosque community organises daily breaking of fast as well as the popular bubur lambuk distribution. There are also Quran recitations and offerings to charity.
6.15PM: HERBAL AND SUNDRY SHOPS
“Traditional herbal medicine (jamu) is popular with the Malays and is also no stranger to Chinese and Indian societies here,” says Jane.
Kampung Baru is noted for its shops selling herbs. Fresh and dry herbal plants, herbal extract, oil and essential oil are all found in Jalan Raja Alang, alongside merchandise such as zam zam water, Islamic calligraphy and prayer items.
6.30PM: GURDWARA TATT KHALSA TEMPLE
As we near the last destination, we stop first at the compound of Gurdwara Tatt Khalsa Diwan, a place of worship and religious school for the Sikh community.
“Built in 1922, the temple sits on 0.8ha of land given by the former British Administration at Perkins Road, now named Jalan Raja Alang,” says Jane, adding that it is one of the largest Sikh temples in Southeast Asia.
Donations were raised to build the temple which was completed in early 1924,with facilities like the Gurdwara Sahib kitchen, Langgar hall, Granthi’s quarters, visitors’ rooms as well as accommodation for underprivileged Sikhs.
Today, visitors of all religions and races can visit the temple and enjoy a free vegetarian lunch every Sunday.
6.45PM: EVENING STREET BAZAAR
Time flies! The tour is coming to an end. Our last destination, before heading for Regency Hotel Kuala Lumpur, is the evening street market.
The narrow street is crowded with hawkers selling fresh local fruit and vegetables. Hmm, now I know where to buy my groceries in the heart of Kuala Lumpur!
Jalan-jalan Kampung Baru cultural guided walk
Starting point: Sultan Sulaiman Club, Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman, Kampung Baru, Kuala Lumpur.
When to register: 4.15pm to 4.30pm
Tel: 03-2698 0332 or email pelancongan@dbkl.gov.my
How to register: Booking must be made 24 hours in advance and is on a first-come first-served basis limited to 25 people. The guided walk is held on every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday.
What to wear: Comfortable clothes and walking shoes.