Thor Heyerdahl sailed the Pacific on Kontiki. Federal Hotel’s Kontiki restaurant offers a food adventure instead, writes
Tan Bee Hong
WHEN the lift door opens, the first thing you see at the newly relaunched Kontiki poolside restaurant at Federal Hotel are tiki, large wooden carvings of human form, painted a shining golden hue.
Inside, globe lights hang from the ceiling to reflect the moon while the undulating walls represent waves on the sea.
Kontiki was the raft used by Norwegian explorer and writer Thor Heyerdahl in 1947 on an expedition across the Pacific Ocean, from South America to Polynesia. It was named after the Inca sun god, Viracocha, for whom Kontiki was said to be an old name.
At Federal’s Kontiki, the adventure is culinary, an exploration of flavours from Asia to the Americas. Seating is spacious and its rattan “love seats” are popular with customers.
CHILLED ON ICE
Poached seafood on ice is a huge draw with customers. Not surprising as there are mountains of crabs, yabbies, slipper lobsters, oysters, mussels and scallops in shells. On the other side of the island buffet table is the sushi counter. There are various dips but I prefer to eat the chilled seafood with the wasabi and soya sauce as well as a delectable ebiko-mayonnaise dip.
Next to this are cold salads, with some served in small individual saucers. These comprise both local and western items. There’s also rojak and a cheerful Thai chef who prepares som tam (green papaya salad) to order.
HOT BRICKS
When you are done with the appetisers and seafood, head for the barbecued meat section in front of the spanking new brick oven where two rows of duck and chicken hang, slowly roasted to a glistening golden hue. Apart from Cantonese roast duck, there’s peipa chicken and Peking duck. The chef will chop servings of duck and chicken, offered with Hainanese chicken rice and condiments such as ginger paste, soya sauce and vinegar chili sauce.
The Peking duck is a must-have. Deboned, the warm slices of duck slathered with a sweet sauce, are sandwiched between two thin slices of mantou.
Next to this is the noodles station, dishing up asam laksa, prawn mee and a light, creamy Malacca nyonya laksa to order.
In line with the Kontiki theme, there are South Pacific style dishes such as reme tapatapahia (lamb rack with apple mint sauce), kaimoana (seafood platter with fruit salsa dip), mitikau (beef stew with root vegetables) and rimurimu (poached snapper with seaweed sauce).
I also spot a Basque dish, piperade. This is a tomato-based stew with various vegetables in colours that reflect the colours of the Basque flag (red, green and white). It’s topped with eggs and best eaten with sliced baguette toast.
Craving for local dishes? How about Tunku Abdul Rahman’s favourite prawns and fern shoots in creamy gravy and rendang? There are Indian dishes too, from fish curry to dahl makhani.
TAKE IT OUTSIDE
Near the pool, more grilling is going on. Customers have their pick of sausages, chicken, prawns, shishamo (pregnant fish) and squid.
And you can smell the aroma drifting over from the churrasco oven, where slices of wagyu beef and lamb are being barbecued. If you can’t wait, whole roasts of beef, a lamb rack, chicken and a whole salmon are ready to be carved.
SIMPLY SWEET
French pastries, danish selections and kuih muih stand next to the fresh fruit section. Or make an ice kacang, putting in all your favourite condiments. Mine has attap seeds, lychee, grass jelly and a sprinkle of shredded nutmeg. To make it more special, I add fresh jackfruit and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. A perfectly sweet end to the meal.
Kontiki
Where
Poolside, Federal Hotel
Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2148 9166
website: kontiki.com.my
Opening Hours
From 6.30pm.
What’s Cooking
Barbecued duck and grilled meats.
Must Try
Peking duck and churrasco
You’ll Pay
RM118+
Atmosphere
Casual and cosy
Overall Verdict
Go give it a try