When a gastronomy club like Chaine des Rotisseurs gets together, it’s more than just about the eating, writes Karen Ho
TING, ting. The unmistakable sound of a glass being tapped with a utensil, calling for everyone’s attention, signals an impending announcement.
The chatter abates and a hush takes over the cosy colonial-style dining room filled with more than 20 diners who’ve just indulged in a six-course fine-dining meal.
Chef Chang Kim Soon stands facing the diners, together with kitchen and service staff as they wait for a representative to pronounce the verdict on the evening’s specially-crafted feast.
As an observer, it feels much like watching the climax of a cooking competition TV show where aspiring chefs sweat in anticipation to hear if their efforts will be lauded or slaughtered.
My view of Soon is blocked by a pillar but I wonder if his heart is beating faster since he knows it’s not only his reputation at stake, but also that of his workplace, the Cameron Highlands Resort.
TRADITION AND HERITAGE
The feedback or “appreciation” session is an essential part of the tradition at a dinner for the Chaine des Rotisseurs, the world’s oldest and largest association of gastronomy.
Halfway across the world from its Parisian base, the setting is perfect for the evening hosted by the Bailliage de Perak (Perak chapter), one of eight baillages in the country (there are more than 80 member countries).
While there’s a focus on enjoying pleasures of the table and the company of fellow food aficionados, the association is also dedicated to honouring the art of cuisine.
“An organisation like Chaine wants to celebrate chefs and their skills, to encourage them to be their best,” shares Dr Elizabeth Lee, the regional president of the Perak chapter.
“We appreciate their work but we also expect them to be at their peak. That’s why the Chaine des Rotisseurs will go around, choosing restaurants and asking if they’re ready for a Chaine dinner. You’ll be surprised how many will say no because they know they have to rise to the occasion.”
This effort to encourage the development of culinary art is one of the Chaine’s distinguishing features as a food association. In fact, it’s a historical legacy. Its origin dates back to the 13th century when the first guilds were formed in Europe, guilds that were largely responsible for the birth of the arts. Among them was culinary art which was promoted by the Guild of Spit-Roasters in France. As with all the Guilds, the membership consisted of Apprentices, Companions and Masters who received their titles after presenting their masterpiece to the Elders.
The Guild is commemorated in the form of two crossed turning spits which are one of the components on the Chaine des Rotisseurs logo. This can be found emblazoned on a medallion, which hangs at the end of a chain attached to a large ribbon, and worn today by Chaine members throughout the world whenever they attend an organised dinner event.
PREAMBLE AND PROTOCOL
It’s way after 6pm when I slide into the Reading Room to hear the welcoming remarks that are already underway from Dr Lee. The sight of black bow ties, smart suits, elegant gowns and coiffured tresses suggest that I’m in for an evening that will be a notch more refined than a night out with my Kepong foodie group.
Colourful ribbons and chains that adorn the members’ garments like a prestigious award arrest my sight.
A symbolic accessory, the ribbons denote rank in the association and are awarded to members when they are inducted or promoted. Against Dr Lee’s black evening attire, the gold chain and medal on a green ribbon stands out with great dignity, just like its owner.
“Members can dine anywhere in the world,” she explains to the uninitiated guests, “and often we look out for restaurants with the Chaine mark as we know this is where Chaine has dined and finds acceptable.” On this particular night, the spotlight is on the Cameron Highlands Resort which, like other venues, is selected either through recommendation, at random, or just by popular vote.
VISUAL FEAST
As we enter the dining area, we’re greeted with a feast for the eyes. Nightfall has cast its dramatic tone into the restaurant interior, complemented by a gentle luminosity emitting from glowing wall lights and candles. The colonial-style room with its timber-beamed ceiling, wood panelling and large draped windows is dominated by an elegant long table, fully-dressed in white tablecloth and accessorised with floral bouquets, glimmering tealights, countless wine glasses, and other decorative delights. Meanwhile, mere metres outside the windows, a shimmering curtain of fairy lights suspended among the trees provides a stunning panoramic backdrop, creating a magical ambience.
To the Chaine, importance is placed on the entire dining experience, from the cuisine and wine pairings to presentation and service. As gourmet creations are served and wine glasses filled, the initial low murmurs escalate into lively chatter and jovial jesting among the Chaine members and their guests, interspersed with good-humoured toasts, first to the gentlemen and later to the ladies.
BEYOND THE EATING
“Anyone can join,” remarks Dr Lee in reply to whether members need to be connected somehow to the culinary world. I’d noticed that the dinner attendees included two from Le Cordon Bleu Malaysia and a hotel consultant. As someone with an illustrious career in education — which includes helming the education division of the Sunway Group — Dr Lee tells me that members come from various backgrounds including business, medicine and law. She continues: “But you must show that you truly have an interest in the philosophy behind the Chaine. It’s not just an interest in eating.”
She stresses that “it’s quite stringent”, referring to the way members are recruited “because each (person) has to be recommended by another two members and they’d need to have attended at least two Chaine dinners.”
As to whether there are other protocols or codes of conduct, Dr Lee replies, chuckling: “We’re not a secret society that’s for sure! We want other people to appreciate this (good cooking). We’re happy to enlarge the circle so we’re far from snooty and elitist.”
A Chaine event isn’t always about fine-dining. The Perak chapter, in particular, has distinguished itself by going away on weekends which allows for more informal peripheral activities, such as nature walks or spa treatments, which revolve around the main dinner event. THE CRITIQUESilence has fallen onto the room yet my hearing has to focus hard on the soft-spoken feedback being given to Soon on behalf of the Perak Chaine by one of its members, Chef Rodolphe Onno, the technical director of Le Cordon Bleu Malaysia.
The 30-year-old Chef de Hote (Resort Chef) of Cameron Highlands Resort, whom I later manage to corner, confides that he had nerves during the food tasting session but they kept away on the actual night. Soon, who’s worked with the YTL Group for six years, confides: “I love to hear honest feedback because everyone can improve. I can raise my standards, gain more exposure, and it can lead to a good reputation for the resort.”
His culinary efforts on the Chaine menu, which includes incorporating different types of seafood, organic vegetables and herbs, were well received, especially his cold starter and the combination of wagyu beef with sea urchin.
The president of the Perak chapter remarks that despite being a young chef, “he rose to the occasion tonight”. As she speaks, I hear strains of joyous voices from the other members belting outMy Way from the lobby lounge. Dr Lee continues: “That was no ordinary feat. This chef sticks to the traditions; he knows what his strengths are and goes all out to ensure he enhances them. For that, he ought to be congratulated.”
The plaque presented by the Chaine des Rotisseurs, Perak Chapter, now sits proudly in the Reading Room among other marks of endorsement. The Amical Dinner may be over but the night is still young. While a sleepy hush settles across the lush highlands, a merry group of Chaine members continue strengthening their foodie fraternity.
AMICAL DINNER
COLD STARTER
Loch Fyne Salmon, Hokkaido Scallop, Pickled Fennel, Ginger Dressing
SOUP
Jerusalem Artichoke, Cream, Smoke Garlic Chip
WARM STARTER
Charred Prawn, Pumpkin Yolk Puree, Cumin Oil
PALATE CLEANSER
Calamansi Sorbet
MAIN COURSE
Wagyu Medallion - Medium, Sea Urchin Crust
DESSERT
Highland Strawberries, Marscapone