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A fine fusion where Japanese meets Korean with a touch of Italian pizzazz

At Mazzo, customers get the best of South Korean and Japanese cuisine, with a dash of Italian too, writes Tan Bee Hong

MAZZO claims to be “Korean barbecue meets Japanese fare”, combining both cuisines with “an exquisite fusion”. It also serves Italian fare.

The months-old restaurant at street level in Publika, Kuala Lumpur, has a semi al fresco section as well as seating in air-conditioned comfort with luxurious long curtains, chandeliers, elegant tableware on white tablecloth, with white napkins.

FRESH, FRESH, FRESH

Mazzo offers only two types of sashimi, salmon and tuna and these are the best grade fish that melts in the mouth, especially the salmon belly and tuna belly (which has delicate, fine marbling). Finely chopped pickled onion goes perfectly with the fish.

The broccoli soup, laced with fresh cream and croutons, shines with all the fresh flavour of the vegetable. A rich broth that’s both filling and satisfying.

If you’re having this, don’t be tempted to order the pane cream pasta as the combination may prove too heavy for one sitting. Served in a hollowed bun the size of a bowling-ball, the pasta is tossed in a creamy sauce with chicken/beef and lots of shimeji mushrooms to give the dish a crunch. However, I feel it’s carbo overload to have bun, pasta and cream in one serving.

Grilled toothfish (cod icefish) is served with mashed sweet potato, broccoli florets and shimeji mushrooms. My portion of fish is from the collar and despite the presence of bones, I am pleased as this is one of my favourite parts of fish. The collar flesh is smooth and sweet, with no fishy taste at all.

Prawn tempura is accompanied by sweet potato and aubergine slices. Tempura is served with a dip but at Mazzo, it doesn’t come with finely grated ginger and daikon.

KEEP SIMMERING

While Boiled Dish doesn’t exactly sound inspiring, don’t turn the menu page yet. Our Braised Mackerel (RM122.30) for instance, is chilli red with kimchi spices. The mackerel is cooked with big chunks of radish simmered to tenderness. A tealight under the metal dish keeps it bubbling at the table. This is eaten with rice and you’ll be tempted to ask for more. There is enough for at least three persons. That the fish stays smooth and tender despite all that bubbling at the table attests to its quality.

WHAT’S THE BEEF?

Beef is a big deal at Mazzo. Whether you like it minced as in a patty, sliced or as steak, you get plenty of choices.

Mazzo hamburger steak is a thick beef patty topped with a sweet onion sauce. Comes with rice, vegetables and a fried egg. When you order Mazzo steak, do tell the staff how you prefer your meat as the standard rule is to serve it well-done.

My dining companion’s favourite is the beef tenderloin, sliced thickly and grilled. She says it’s well marinated and juicy while a sprinkle of sesame seeds gives it a nutty flavour.

EASY LUNCH

For lunch, bento boxes, rice and noodles (from RM15) are available, from spicy seafood noodles and fish cutlet bento to bibimbap and hamburger bento.

MAZZO

WHERE: A3-G2-9 Solaris Dutamas, Publika, KL

TEL: 03-6411 9380

OPENING HOURS: Daily, 10am to 10pm

WHAT’S COOKING: Japanese, Korean and Western

MUST TRY: Braised Mackerel

ATMOSPHERE: Charming

SERVICE: Excellent

OVERALL VERDICT: Go give it a try

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