One cosmetic product has made makeup application faster and smoother, writes Nadia Badarudin
WHEN it comes to beauty, the standard now is anything set by the meteoric rise of hallyu or the South Korean wave of culture and entertainment,
With South Korea being established as the epicentre of beauty trends in recent years, it also seems that the Koreans have the answer for any makeup hiccups, and solutions for anyone longing for radiant, dewy skin.
While some people (including myself) are still trying to make sense of the use of the alphabet creams — BB (Beauty Balm, a concept originated from German but made popular by the Koreans and Japanese), CC (Colour Control/Colour Correcting) or DD (Dynamic Do-All, a hybrid of BB and CC creams), the beauty industry is heralding the cushion compact as its biggest global trend.
What is the cushion compact? Why has this South Korean invention become the latest must-have item in your handbag? What makes it different from the BB, CC or DD creams?
The concept of the cushion compact was built upon the conventional sunblock, foundation and skincare technology and pioneered by renowned Korean beauty giant Amorepacific.
Cushion, according to the company which owns Sulwhasoo, Laneige and innisfree, among others, “is a portable compact encasing a cushiony sponge soaked in a liquid formula of sunblock, foundation and skincare ingredients”.
In other words, the sponge retains a formula which is a fusion of skincare and makeup.
The cushion also has air-tight packaging with a unique application system and greater sun protection.
The sponge, for instance, prevents spillage and retains the liquid product in a unique form.
Cushion is not a brand new invention. It sold like hot cakes in South Korea after March 2008, when Amorepacific discovered polyurethane foam to realise the cushion idea and launched IOPE Air Cushion, its first cushion product.
The company recently claimed that it sells one cushion every second around the globe and had exceeded the 100-million unit sales mark on a cumulative basis in the third quarter of 2016, only six months after achieving the 80-million unit sales mark at the end of 2015.
PAT, PAT, GO!
Cushion is the better alternative to other forms of foundation makeup as it is long-lasting, more convenient, cleaner and effortless to apply.
To apply, simply press the applicator puff onto the sponge to dispense the liquid formula, pat and press the puff onto your face and the desired, natural look is achieved in no time.
Cushion is an all-in-one product that makes makeup an easier, one-step process. With the right technique, it can provide a natural, photo-ready coverage.
Unlike BB or CC creams that have lower sunscreen protection, studies show that cushion compacts generally contain SPF50 and provide greater UVA/UVB protection.
Its cooling and lightweight texture makes it the most breathable foundation type and allows you to touch-up several times throughout the day minus the cakey effect (which is also a good way to re-apply SPF every two hours — as the standard recommendation for sunscreen — without having to do one’s makeup all over again).
But is cushion suitable for all skin types?
Kyungho Choi, creator of Amorepacific’s first cushion and head of Cushion Lab (the company’s research unit) says as the pioneer, the company has always emphasised on products which do not only enhance one’s beauty but are also safe.
“All our products have gone through years of extensive R&D and testing. We integrate Asia’s natural ingredients such as ginseng, green tea and bamboo to give diverse skincare benefits. Most importantly, the ingredients must be safe and suitable to be used on all skin types,” he says.
THE BANDWAGON
The cushion concept has evolved over the years with products tailored to various age groups and market segments. Anti-ageing, extra hydrating, pore-minimising are among the added benefits claimed in cushion products.
Products have become more customised too, with some brands like innisfree letting consumers choose their own cushion bases, puffs and trendy cushion cases which makes it more appealing to theyounger market segment.
The concept has also been applied in other makeup products such as blushers, concealers and eyeliners.
American and European cosmetics and beauty giants are also jumping on the bandwagon.
These Western brands are capitalising on the one factor that the South Koreans are slow to address, which is limited range of shades, says fashion and beauty website, Racked.
(Most South Korean brands offer cushions in only two or three shades which are more suitable for fair-skinned Asians).
The website recently reported that five brands( Lancome, MAC, L’Oreal, Clinique and Physicians Formula) have launched their own versions of cushion (in which some are also much cheaper than South Korean brands).
In terms of colours, MAC Matchmaster Shade Intelligence Compact and L’Oreal True Match Lumi Cushion come in 12 shades each, while Lancome Miracle Cushion is available in 11 shades.
CUSHION FOR MEN
The game-changing cushion has slowly made it into the makeup bags of male beauty buffs — not surprising as the Korean culture is very driven by status and how you look; men commonly apply tinted moisturisers to job interviews.
The Economist reported in 2015 that many men in South Korea start experimenting with makeup and beauty products during their two-year military service — “girlfriends offer them camouflage face-paint kits and moisturisers to cope with the dry winter and sizzling summer”.
It implies that the cushion trend is natural considering the fact that men in South Korea use 13 grooming products on average a month, almost half the number that their female peers use.
While it seems possible that the cushion will go mainstream among South Korean men, Choi thinks otherwise.
“The trend is promising, but men are still hesitant to take out the compact and touch up in public. It looks awkward,” he says.
“Unless, of course, makeup producers can come up with innovative and more masculine designs for the cushion cases.”
Apart from the downfalls of cushion — pricey tag for not-so-much product and bacteria taking solace in the moist sponge — the little circular all-in-one wonder is definitely here to stay. And perhaps for many more years to come.
SUNBLOCK IN A COMPACT
In 2006, women around the world were using more sunblock than ever. But, sunblock in tube or balm form, is not the most convenient to use. During Amorepacific researchers’ brainstorming session to solve this problem, a new team member asked a seemingly silly question out of the blue: “Do we have to put sunblock in a tube?” She then shared her idea about putting liquid ingredients into a compact.
One day, a senior researcher had a revelation while getting a parking stamp. He noticed how the ink spread evenly when stamped. The ink also did not flow from the ink pad. This was exactly what the team wanted for their new product.
The stamp idea passed the initial test, in that liquid in the sponge did not flow but spread smoothly.
The combination of liquid ingredients retained in a cushion-like sponge (made of polyurethane foam) and packaged in a simple compact container gave the name Cushion Cosmetics.
That day, the history of cushion cosmetics began.
Source: Adapted from the booklet, Who Came Up With Cushion Cosmetics? The Amorepacific Cushion Cosmetics Story.