From the beauty of the land to its people, South Solok is an idyllic holiday destination, writes Safia Osman
THE young girl drapes a folded handwoven sarung with a chequered pattern, over our shoulders. She does this to welcome us the Minang way. The camera clicks around us. I feel like a celebrity.
Our tour group has just landed at Padang airport on Minang land (Bumi Minang). The young girl who welcomes us is Zalva Indira Dhiaulhaq, 15, the lovely daughter of Ade Nusyirwan and Rikhi, founders of ZanZi Tours Indonesia.
Zalva is resplendent in a traditional Minang costume made from exquisite handwoven material in gold and crimson. Her mother is there to welcome us, too.
As our tour unfolds, I am glad I decided to join the tour group to South Solok (Solok Selatan) with seven other Malaysians and two Singaporeans. Solok is in Sumatra, the sixth largest island in the world.
JOURNEY SOUTH
It is drizzling when we arrive in the morning. But the weather does not dampen our spirits, especially after the mouthwatering Padang-style lontong ketupat with pucuk paku (Padang-style glutinuous rice with jungle fern) that we had for breakfast.
Our van winds its way towards South Solok. This is the time to sit back, relax and enjoy the countryside. The breathtaking views of the forested hills and mountains, their peaks covered with thick white clouds, remind me of the snow-capped Swiss Alps.
We stop for lunch at a little restaurant with long batik curtains in Alahan Panjang Cubadak Bungkuak. We sit on the floor and enjoy delectable Minang dishes such as ayam kampung goreng balado (balado fried chicken) and ikan masak lemak cili padi (fish in bird’s eye chilli and coconut gravy) (PLEASE CHECK IF ENGLISH TRANSLATION IS CORRECT).
We then take a group photo with Gunung Talang and Gunung Kerinci (Mount Gunung and Mount Kerinci) and the tranquil waters of Danau Kembar (Twin Lakes) in the background.
It is a four-hour trip to South Solok. Further along the road we stop at a little cafe in the Lembah Gumanti area for freshly brewed Solok coffee. An old woman stands outside the cafe, selling little packets of sweet strawberries. Her face beams with happiness when we buy all that she has in her basket.
We make one more stop to buy local fruit at one of the many stalls lining both sides of the narrow road. I am fascinated by the way the markisa (passion fruit) are displayed. The orange and bright yellow fruits, ripened by the sun, are tied together and hung high for all to see.
There is an abundance of avocados, several types of bananas (pisang raja, tanduk and salai) and a wide range of kripik (Indonesian chips). The fruit vendor is happy to see us.
CHARMING RUMAH GADANG
It is already late evening when we reach Kawasan Saribu Rumah Gadang (rumah gadang means big house). I am spellbound by the beauty of the traditional Minangkabau houses, also known as rumah adat (customary house), clustered among the trees. Built more than 200 years ago, there are about 150 of these ebony-coloured timber houses with their distinctive curved roof and multi-tiered gables sweeping upwards, reminiscent of buffalo horns. Many have bright yellow and orange curtains, which contrast sharply against the black timber. Sadly, a few of the houses are dilapidated.
Ade, the young heritage-inspired social entrepreneur, with help from South Solok’s Tourism Board, is doing her best to encourage the owners of rumah gadang to restore them so that they can be turned into homestays. She sees tourism as a way to boost the local economy.
It looks like her efforts are beginning to bear fruit. More and more rumah gadang are being protected and preserved. Kawasan Saribu Rumah Gadang (***big house village***), which recently earned Unesco status, is now a popular tourist destination.
We are excited at the thought of a two-night stay in a rumah gadang. It is a chance to experience Minang culture, traditionally a matrilineal society in which land and property are passed on from mother to daughter. Ibu Kanduang Tini warmly greets us at the rumah gadang. Also there to receive us are two of her daughters and grandson. With no language and cultural barriers separating us, we get along immediately.
We do our Maghrib prayer together and sit down for dinner afterwards. Ibu Tini serves us a sumptuous meal of rice with a number of accompanying dishes, including ulaman (raw kampung salad). For dessert, we have markisa.
It doesn’t matter that we have to sleep on mattresses laid out on the floor. From the living area, a little back staircase leads to a modern kitchen and bathrooms. The water is cold and invigorating.
CULTURAL IMMERSION
The highlight of our trip is the second day. We are up long before we hear the azan, the call by the muezzin to Fajr prayer. The mosque is only a stone’s throw from the Rumah Gadang.
After a leisurely breakfast of pisang raja goreng (***fried banana fritters***) and steamed pulut hitam (***black glutinuous rice***), eaten with grated coconut, papaya and South Solok coffee, we dress up in traditional Minangkabau costumes complete with accessories. The women help us with our headdresses, shaped like buffalo horns, known as tengkuluk tanduak (***horned headdress***). We wear black baju kurung and handwoven sarungs. One of us is dressed as a Minangkabau bride, with an elaborate gilt wedding headdress.
The sun greets us as we step out of the rumah gadang to take photographs after photographs! The driver then takes us through the village to a tree-shaded courtyard between a big, beautifully restored rumah gadang and two rice barns. I am moved to learn that in years gone by, the more affluent families would store huge amounts of rice grain in the barns to be distributed to the poor in times of drought or famine.
Assembled in the courtyard is the village dance troupe. The musicians and dancers are all women who wear either pink or golden yellow outfits. To welcome us, they play music and dance. Two young women perform the Tari Piriang, a traditional dance from Solok.
Halfway through they are joined by two teenage boys who perform the silat, impressing us with their swift, yet graceful, dance movements. The women also encourage us to try the dance steps, which we oblige much to our own delight.
TEA AND MACADAMIA NUTS
We return to the rumah gadang to rest before leaving on an educational tour of South Solok Liki Tea Plantation. Located on the sprawling tea plantation is the biggest green tea factory, not only in Indonesia but the whole of Southeast Asia.
We tour the factory, learning every step in the process of making tea - from plucking to separating the leaves from the twigs, shredding, drying, etc. Using the brand name Liki, the premium tea is known for its strong colour and taste.
The factory guide introduces to us a wide selection of teas, including their widely known white tea, which is rare and very expensive, as well as red sinensis and green sinensis. We enjoy our afternoon tea in the factory.
As part of its efforts to diversify, the company has planted macadamia nut trees on large tracts of land close to the factory. These trees thrive in tropical lands with high humidity.
We stand under the macadamia trees with their glossy leaves and thick clusters of white flowers. Some of us are lucky enough to find ripe macadamia nuts that have fallen to the ground. These richly flavoured nuts are very expensive and are used largely in making chocolates. We tried our hands at cracking a big bowl of nuts using a very simple tool. We enjoy the experience of drinking different blends of tea while munching on macadamia nuts.
GIFTS FOR THE UNFORTUNATE
From the tea plantation we proceed to Kampung Tarandam Bawah, a small village. Early this year, the whole village had been inundated by floodwaters. The water rose quickly and there was nothing the people could do except run to higher ground, unable to save their belongings.
Even before we left home, Ade had told us about visiting the children of this village. Hence, we had brought various gifts, including chocolates. I also brought copies of my newly published bilingual book, Tikus Bandar Dan Tikus Desa/City Mouse And Country Mouse, for the children, who had gathered in the Nurul Iman mosque.
It is heartbreaking not to be able to spend more time with them. We leave the place with a heavy heart but happy that we could put smiles on their faces.
Each one of us must have said a silent prayer for the children. We also pray for their abang-abang (big brothers) who, with all the generosity in their hearts, spend time with them, teaching and counselling them every day.
This trip reaffirms my belief that every holiday is different. And the people whom I met in South Solok have certainly won my heart.