Billy Lian cycles from Kathmandu to Lumbini and it takes him just nine days
“ARE you out of your mind? Cycling solo in Nepal during winter?” This is among the shock replies from my friends when I tell them that I plan to cycle from the heart of Kathmandu to Lumbini, covering 530km. “And you don’t even have a bike!” says another.
Well, actually I have. I managed to salvage an old 21x Lerun mountain bike from my cousin’s store room that has been kept there for 11 years. “You won’t even make it out from the airport with that junk,” they continue, convinced my trip is a suicidal mission.
But I am determined to go ahead with my plan. Soon, I am on a plane to Kathmandu with my trusty old bike in the cargo hold. As the plane touches down at the Tribhuvan International Airport, I am a bit anxious as I look at the scenery outside the window. The turf is brownish and the trees are left with dry branches.
WARMING UP IN KATHMANDU
It takes me an hour to assemble my mountain bike outside the airport terminal walkway. Once every part is back to its original position, the bicycle looks roadworthy and safe for the long journey. The short test ride convinces me that the bike can actually make it after all.
From the airport, I ride into the city, imagining being enveloped by the icy cold breeze of fresh Himalayan mountain air. But the choking thick black smoke emitted from all sort of vehicles in the congested city, brings me back to reality. The pollution in Kathmandu is awful, the buildings are mostly grey. There is very little landscaping along the street scape and definitely not a friendly place for cyclists.
I head towards Thamel Square (similar to Petaling Street in Kuala Lumpur). It is a tourist spot with rows of souvenir shops, shops selling all sort of hiking gears and lots of budget hostels. Halfway through Thamel, I throw my Lonely Planet guide book away. It is a waste of time trying to manoeuvre in this spiderweb-like streetscape.
Asking the locals for direction to Pushkar Hotel, my hotel for the night, seems faster. I pass by the hotel three times but I still fail to locate it.
Finally, I find it in a small alley and it is without any sign.
My room is at the roof top and it is the cheapest at RM11.10/night. The downside is that I have to carry my bike up to the room and it is a long and tiring climb to the fifth floor. But I am lucky as the hotel manager is also an avid cyclist, who has his expensive bike parked on the third floor.
The next day, I cycle to all the major attractions in Kathmandu, which included the five World Heritage Sites — Bhaktapur, Patan, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Durbar Square.
JOURNEY TO POKHARA
On the third day, I embark on a dangerous journey to Pokhara. The only highway connecting Kathmandu and Pokhara, Prithvi Highway runs along the Trisuli River for 246 km. It is a dangerous route as landslide, heavy traffic and accidents are common.
The Nepalese highway is a narrow single lane for two-way traffic. So it is very dangerous for cyclists.
I put on my full gear — protective cycling helmet, cycling gloves, bright clothing and a reflective jacket — and switch on all my bicycle lights even in broad daylight. These make me look like a Christmas tree, with all the blinking lights but they keep me safe.
After two days, I reach Pokhara safely. The city is famous for its beautiful lakeside and it is the gateway to the famous Annapurna trails.
HALFWAY IN TANSEN
I spend two days in Pokhara before starting my journey to my final destination — Lumbini. The two cities are connected by the Siddhartha Highway.
The high altitude 225km highway is not for the faint-hearted. Its never-ending remote winding mountainous road is a real pain for even experienced cyclists.
From Pokhara, it is a tiring uphill battle all the way to Tansen, 105km away. The difficulty is multiplied by weather. If you are to take this route in winter, the freezing mountain wind from the Himalaya will break every spirit in you, and make you just want to give up and go home crying.
At night, the temperature drops drastically to nearly freezing level and you must make it to the next town or freeze to death. But if you make it through, you will be rewarded with the most beautiful scenery, which make those killer loops all worth it. I do not have a tent so it’s either I make it or freeze to death, as simple as that.
You wonder how I take my bath when there’s no water heater? Spend half an hour staring at the water tank in the bathroom, while watching cold mist coming out of my mouth when I exhale. Eventually I close my eyes and pour water on my head until I cannot feel anything. It is the most memorable bath and I feel alive after it.
At Syangja, one of the settlements along the highway, I meet three beautiful Japanese women. They have been in the remote mountain area for the past six months as United Nations volunteers.
We have fun chatting, drinking and have a memorable candle light dinner at the guest house. In Nepal, I have candle light dinner almost every night. Not because the Nepalese are romantic but the government imposes electricity rationing every day from sundown to 9pm. So, be prepared with extra torch light if you happen to stay in a budget hotel without any generator.
Tansen is the highest point in the journey at an altitude of 1,350m above sea level. In the morning, a sea of cloud floats pass the mountain. After Tansen, it is all the way downhill to Lumbini.
FINAL DESTINATION
I reach Lumbini park at around 2pm after three days cycling along the Siddhartha Highway. Lumbini was the Buddha’s birthplace and became a World Heritage Site in 1997. Many countries like China, Japan, Korea and Thailand built temples in Lumbini park as tribute to the Buddha.
Unknown to many, some temples offer a place to stay for worshipers. My destination is the Korean temple. As the park covers a total area of 7.7sq km, I get lost again but a group of young lamas guide me all the way there.
The Korean temple offers a luxurious big room with spacious bathroom and three vegetarian meals a day for just 500 rupees (RM18.50) per night. After freshening up, I explore the park’s centre of attraction — The Buddha Birth Place. It is a holy place and I spend the whole afternoon meditating under the bodhi tree in search of personal enlightenment, watching the lamas carrying out their prayers and taking beautiful shots whenever I can.
Before leaving, I make a donation to the temples before embarking on a return journey to Kathmandu by bus via the southern route.
I have cycled a total of 530km in nine days, without any scratch and not even a single flat tyre. It was a dangerous journey but I believe that if I don’t do it while I still can, I will regret it for the rest of my life.