The rides not only awaken the child in Rebecca Ilham but also take her to new sights and create new memories
WHAT can make you feel like a child again? For me, it is riding on trains. There is something nostalgic and carefree about looking out at changing views while trying to catch up on some reading, fighting off sleep and munching on snacks, before the rolling stock finally succeeds in lulling you into a nap.
But what if one journey doesn’t satisfy, yet you’re pressed for time and want to ride as many trains as possible?
I turn to Japan for answers. Long famous for its shinkansen (bullet train), a fast mode of land transportation first launched in conjunction of the Tokyo Olympic Games in 1964, the country also boasts a comprehensive, efficient and safe nationwide train network. Thus, I believe it will not only awaken the child in me but also takes me to new sights and create new memories as well.
FROM OSAKA TO HIROSHIMA
My rail adventure kicks off from Kansai International Airport in Osaka, after an overnight flight from Kuala Lumpur, where I board the Rapid Airport Service heading for the city. It’s just a regular commuter train, albeit with stops along the way. I am still groggy from lack of sleep but the view of Osaka suburban, with houses at times just a few feet away from the rail track, refreshes me. New sights always do.
After leaving my luggage in the safety and security of my favourite backpackers’ hostel, I hop on a short train ride via the orange, retro-looking coaches of Osaka Loop Line to Osaka City Station. Once at the futuristic-looking transportation hub that connects various train, subway and bus lines, I proceed to Midori-no-Madoguchi, the ticket counter where I book the first leg of my long distance train journey.
The adventure that I am looking forward to starts early. By 6 the following morning, I am already on my way (by train, obviously) to Shin-Osaka (literally: new Osaka) station, where I board the Sanyo Shinkansen heading west. The train I’m taking is code-named Kodama.
The code name differentiates each train’s speed, number of stops and stopping time at each station; the fastest would be Nozomi, followed by Mizuho but I couldn’t take these two with the Japan Rail Pass that I’m carrying.
To be honest, for trips that last less than two hours like the one I’m taking, the travel duration only differs by a few minutes. I might have to be contented with either Hikari, Kodama, Sakura or Tsubame but what’s the rush? The joy of train travel is always in the journey itself, instead of the destination.
The journey takes me through wonderful Japanese countryside, where farms and paddy fields spread out in valleys between hills and mountains. They take my mind away from the seat in the regular coach that I’ve never been a fan of. The back is a bit too stiff but I’m set to enjoy myself, feasting on pastries and a can of hot coffee bought from a convenience store at the station.
In what feels like no time at all, the train arrives in Hiroshima, where I spend a whole day revisiting some of my favourite sights from a previous trip. It is made convenient by, yes, more trains. Hiroshima is one of those cities that still has trams running on its streets. Most coaches are sleek and modern but the ones from the old days still operate. It is always a pleasure to ride on them.
BACK TO OSAKA FROM NAGASAKI
From Hiroshima, I board another bullet train for Hakata station in Fukuoka, Kyushu Island. It isn’t my intended destination though. I transfer to Limited Express Kamome and head for Nagasaki. The white, ultramodern train with very comfortable plush leather seats snakes on tracks along the coastal cliff of Ariake Sea, giving a pleasing change of view. I’m even able to catch sights of sea gulls, the train’s own namesake. The whole 443km journey from Hiroshima takes about three and a half hours, transit time included.
After paying homage to atomic-bomb-related sites, accessible via the city’s trams, I take the same route to return to Hiroshima for some rest before resuming my rail trip the following morning. An early bullet train takes me to Okayama, where I change to a different bullet train. The train’s final destination is Tokyo on the Tokaido Shinkansen line but I alight earlier at Nagoya Station and catch a connecting train.
The train is Wide View Hida and it will take me to one of the three hidden valleys in Japan: Hida-Takayama, deep in the mountains of Gifu. While I am ready for the anticipated beauty of the secluded mountain town, I don’t expect the train to pass through some of the most wonderful landscapes that I have ever seen.
The wide-sized window that gives the train its name is indeed a thoughtful, practical design. It gives me a clear view of the landscape outside, where an emerald green river, just off the cliff the train is climbing sparkles under the sun, while reddish-gold autumnal leaves glow gloriously. The two-hour journey does feel a bit too short!
I get to enjoy the view again on my return leg two days later. Upon alighting at Nagoya Station, I board a bullet train heading west to Kyoto. A local train on the Sagano line is my ride to the traditional town of Arashiyama, where I further indulge the child in me by taking an open-air carriage - the Sagano Torokko Train — to the village of Kameoka and back. The train is a famous for sightseeing during spring and autumn, and the views of Kyoto countryside do not disappoint.
The next few train rides are necessities rather than for pleasure: I make my way back to Osaka for an overnight stay, before putting the rail pass on one last good use to get to the airport for my flight home.
In summary, it is 2,424km well-travelled. The child in me is happy indeed.
* Note: Not all trains taken are covered by the Japan Rail Pass.
How to plan a train travel in Japan
1. A vast country with four major islands (Honshu, Kyushu, Shikoku and Hokkaido) and thousands of small ones, it’s impossible to cover the length and width of Japan by rail in one trip if you are on limited time. So it’s important to narrow down your options: It’s best to confine yourself within a major island, a specific region/area (e.g. Kanto, Kansai, Tohoku, Hokuriku), and if you’re keen on in-depth exploration instead of covering as many places as possible, why not take it one prefecture (e.g Hokkaido), at a time.
2. The national railway company, Japan Railway, is further broken down into regional companies that offer rail passes specific to their respective territory so there are other options than the Japan Rail Pass. You can consider passes offered by private railway companies too. In some areas, they’re not only more convenient but could also be more economically-sensible. For devotees of slow travel, Japan Railway has a heavily-discounted seasonal rail pass called Seishun 18 Kippu that is valid only on local trains. You can’t get to Osaka from Tokyo in three hours (but nine hours, with multiple connections, is more like it), but you’ll discover Japan as seen from the eyes of her people.
3. Always have a train planner app such as Hyperdia and Jorudan at your fingertips. They are indispensable for detailed itinerary planning and a great tool to keep track of the next connecting train while you’re travelling. Hyperdia even lets you try out different train combinations, so your personal travel preferences could be addressed, where possible. Having a train planner handy is particularly essential when travelling long distance on local trains, as connections are more complicated and trains are less frequent.