A fabulous mix of short treks at the Dolomites and pleasurable pursuits around Lake Garda make for an attitude-altering experience for Angela Goh
DAY treks seem unspectacular for many veterans. In the case of my group, we have braved many hard walks including South America’s inhospitable Patagonia, where we met.
Long, laborious overnight treks reward with unparalleled sights and bragging rights, or so we think until we take on Italy’s legendary Dolomites.
Our inventive Italian friends design a brilliant itinerary for six nights, pairing cushy day treks with ample post-trek pleasures.
We base ourselves at a comfortably delightful hotel tucked in the hills overlooking photogenic Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake. Lying between Milan and Venice in the lake district, the 52-km long Garda’s gorgeous fjord-like landscape is studded with charming lakeside towns and ancient hamlets, long bewitching famous poets and writers, including Alfred Tennyson and DH Lawrence.
Though international tourists gravitate to upscale Lake Como for its proximity to Milan, Garda wins over adventure seekers for its diverse landscape.
From there, we drive for about an hour every day to the western section of the mountain range called the Brenta Dolomites.
Each day after pounding the trails, we partake in the Italian spirit of la dolce vita (living the good life), languoring at one of the many lakes or sipping a drink by the terrace at a lakeside town.
THE DOLOMITES
Lining northeastern Italy, the Dolomites is a masterpiece of limestone cliffs, pinnacles and spires, combining glacial and karst landforms. Some tower over 1,500m and are among the highest in the world, endearing this Unesco World Heritage site to trekkers, rock climbers and skiers.
The trails are very well-maintained and precarious stretches are bolstered with unobtrusive safety cables.
The quaint alpine style mountain refuges, which punctuate the warren of trails, are far from the rough and spartan huts common in such remote locations. These here provide lodge-level comfort and lay out restaurant-quality food, which get nods of approval from my local friends.
Malga Vallesinella in Adamello Brenta Nature Park takes us deep into the heart of the Brenta Dolomites. From the trailhead, we pass lush and fecund meadows where cows and sheep mingle.
Then jagged peaks appear above the tree line as prelude to a visual spectacle. In the next turn, we enter an arena of bare limestone skyscrapers, where we stand in awe for a breath-taking moment.
Clamber higher and the Dolomites unveil a wilder, more menacing appearance creased by gullies and ridges.
Brentei refuge (2,182m) sits on a crest almost walled in by the spires. The scenery is so precious and inviting, we lunch in the open under the gaze of these mighty, jagged beauties in dappled hues of dark grey and brown.
From this point, more experienced trekkers and rock climbers make their approach to scale the summits.
Meanwhile, the wind starts to pick up speed and dark clouds gather, signalling it’s time to head back down.
With fine weather on the drive back, we catch the last rays of sunshine at tiny Lake Tenno. It is captivating for its picture perfect mix of an idyllic islet set amid clear turquoise waters with green hills in the background.
Families picnic by the shore, children fascinate themselves with fish that gather by the shoreline, several of us jump in for a swim (and race to the islet), while others take a snooze.
MOUNTAIN TAXIS
As if a day trek isn’t comfortable enough, there are “mountain taxis” for hire on certain trails. The gorgeous Ambiez valley in another part of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park is higher and more challenging than the previous day but a helpful taxi service (www.taximargonari.com) for 10 euros (RM47) per person per way, shaves two hours off the walk.
The exhilarating 25-minute ride is an adventure on its own. The 10 of us are squeezed shoulder to shoulder in a four-wheel drive, bumping and tossing along a crudely paved narrow road. Peering through the window is not for the faint-hearted.
“Hey, there is no safety barrier on the side of the road,” one of my friends points out in fright, sending shivers as we wind our way precariously above a rushing river.
At one very sharp hairpin bend, driver Matteo Margonari does a two-point turn, reversing the vehicle up to the edge of the road, by which time we in the last row, yell: “Stop!”
He makes a calculated, slow halt. “Thanks, that’s about right,” says Margonari, whose earnest remarks are underlined with Italian humour.
At the drop off, we tumble out of the vehicle too shaken and stirred for words, just glad to be in one piece. From there, it is a 1.5-hour excruciating zig-zig path up to Silvio Agostini refuge (2,410m), which offers a spectators’ view of an amphitheatre of formidable peaks.
Another taxi-supported area is at Croz dell’Altissimo mountain on Brenta’s eastern range. The hike, though surprisingly easy, delivers heart-pumping moments on the narrow path sliced along the side of the mountain for most of the way. Attention is focused on sticking to the mountain side away from the edge and hoping the overhanging boulders will remain where they are. These concerns and a fast approaching fog leave little time to view Lake Molveno in the distance, where just the day before we spent a lazy late afternoon by its shore, marvelling at this craggy mountain range.
A complete contrast to placid Lake Tenno, the deep green Lake Molveno is larger and louder, packed with every imaginable lakeside recreational amenity.
GET A LIFT, NO SWEAT
The ultimate challenge now is to not break a single bead of sweat. From Malcesine town on the shores of Lake Garda, we ascend Monte Baldo by cable car. It gets even less tough-going as the cabin rotates gently for 360-degree views, eliminating neck strain.
At the top, gentle trails start from the cable car station and snake along the mountain ridge. Of course we have to take the toughest trail among them, leading to the summit, a mere bump marked by a pile of rocks.
With as much energy as we started, we explore Malcesine town’s medieval cobbled alleys lined with the usual tourist trappings: Souvenir shops, restaurants and lakeside cafes. These succeed in luring us into a gelato and pizza frenzy.
AGRITURISMO FOR AUTHENTICITY
Apart from that moment of madness, we stay away from commercial fare and seek agriturismo (farm-stay) type establishments for original Italian country cuisine and hospitality. Accommodation types range from traditional farmhouses to villas and modern set ups such as the one we stay. Acetaia Del Balsamico is a sleek, contemporary style hotel, lying in a vineyard.
Food is agriturismo’s greatest appeal. Operators take pride in using old style recipes and farm-to-table ingredients. Acetaia makes its own cheese, balsamic vinegar and wine.
The delights, both on and off trek, are endless. We partake in so much more than just the irresistible allure of the Dolomites. From now on we brag about our la dolce vita trek.