IT all started under a tree at a field in Lebuh Campbell, Penang, in 1907. From its humble beginnings, Hameediyah Restaurant has evolved into a landmark nasi kandar outlet.
It now has two restaurants in Penang and two in the Klang Valley.
Hameediyah Restaurant’s history began when M. Mohamed Thamby Rawther, a spice trader from Chittarkottai in the district of Ramanathapuram, Tamil Nadu in India arrived in Penang in the 1900s with his three sons — Seeni Packeer, Packeer Mohamed and Abdul Ghaney.
“In those days, it was common for the men to travel abroad for business, leaving the women behind. The men would come home for holidays, leaving the business under the care of their male relatives.
“This custom is still being practised,” said Ahmed Seeni Pakir, 65, the sixth generation of the Rawther family.
The Hameediyah family rented a house in Lebuh Campbell from a Chinese landowner and set up a shop selling spices from India.
However, it was not long before they began dabbling in the culinary business.
“Mohamed Thamby was not a chef. But he was good at observing the cooking skills of his grandfather, who was a well-known wedding cook in his village, and that of the female members of the family.
“With his knowledge of spices and tips from family members, Mohamed Thamby and his sons came up with their own masala recipe, which is still used as the base of all our curries until today.”
Ahmed said Mohamed Thamby started selling nasi kandar under a large and shady Angsana tree on a field in front of their shop.
“They wanted to show how customers could use spices in their cooking and share with them their culinary skills.
“During that period, the British government did not allow food to be sold in shops, so they would cook the curries at the back of their spice shop, and transport two basketfuls of nasi kadar balanced on a pole (kandar in Malay) to the field. It was this method of carrying the food that gave nasi kandar its name.”
He said the men would cook the rice on the spot, serving an array of mouthwatering curries, kurmas, chicken and beef dishes, and vegetables.
“However, business did not start off well as people were not familiar with nasi kandar then.
“Eventually, it gained momentum with customers queuing up for a plate of the savoury dish.”
As business started to flourish, the men would walk for miles to sell their nasi kandar, from the docks at the nearby jetty, Jalan Pitt (now Jalan Kapitan Keling), Jalan Datuk Koyah and Jalan Perangin (now Jalan Prangin) right up to Tanjung Tokong.
“They were ambitious, smart, and knew where to sell their wares. For example, they would go to Jalan Penang, where there was once a river, but only on particular days when the place would be bustling with riverside traders.”
Ahmed said the demand for the authentic nasi kandar dish never slowed down even during the Japanese occupation in the 1940s. He said the men prepared more beef curry during this period as they noticed the Japanese soldiers and generals liked the dish.
“When the British regained their hold on Malaya in 1945, there was a spike in the sale of nasi kandar as people were trying to spend their Japanese ‘banana money’ before it became worthless.”
Between the 1960s and 1970s, the Hameediyahs regularly supplied immense quantity of food, such as 5,000 portions of beef curry servings to the American soldiers fighting in the Vietnam War.
“Whatever the upheavals in and around Penang, the Hameedyiahs were still a hot commodity.”
Ahmed said after World War 2, the British allowed food to be sold in shops. The first Hameediyah restaurant was set up at No. 164, Lebuh Campbell.
“Business started to thrive and Hameediyah became famous for its signature curries, kurmas, kapitan, murtabak, nasi briyani, rendang, mee goreng and other dishes.
“After Penang’s free port status was revoked in 1969, the economy fell into a slump and this took a toll on businesses. Yet loyal customers still frequented the Hameediyah Restaurant.”
The field, where adults used to gather in between working hours to socialise and children ran around, is now gone and replaced by shoplots.
However, No. 164, Lebuh Campbell still stands. From the 1970s and beyond, as the city here developed and grew, so did Hameediyah. Even outstation and overseas customers headed to Penang just to taste the nasi kandar.
Credit goes to the younger generation of Hameediyah who continued to stick precisely to the recipes prepared by their elders.
“We use the same masala, which includes fennel, cumin, white pepper, almond and cashew nuts that Mohamed Thamby had come up with.
“We still buy whole spices, mix, roast and grind them ourselves.
“We make sure that our spices are of good quality, and that our meat and seafood are fresh,” said Abdul Sukkor Syed Ibrahim, 23, a seventh-generation Hameediyah.
The meticulous preparation is apparent upon entering the restaurant where the aroma of the freshly-made nasi kandar and other dishes permeate the dining area.
Sukkor said after more than 100 years in the business, the restaurant is transitioning into the 21st century and was adapting itself to the modern cultural needs of its customers.
This is apparent from the newly refurbished interior to complement the old world look.
The restaurant’s memorable and charming green and yellow wall tiles and façade have been retained, while the heritage-laden nasi kandar carrier is proudly displayed.
The age-old recipes passed down over the generations, which are the cornerstone of Hameediyah’s success, have been preserved, with old favourites being revived and stringently standardised through modern means to retain consistency.
In addition, their extended outlet, “Hameediyah Tandoori House”, is just two doors away. The Hameediyah family had also opened another outlet on mainland Penang and two in the Klang Valley.
With its old recipes intact and brought to greater heights through new methods of production, service and presentation, the Hameediyah Restaurant is set to carry on the family line of famous and exquisite nasi kandar dishes for many more years to come.