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The scent of Kedah: A recipe for Laksa Kedah

KEDAH, often referred to as the 'Rice Bowl of Malaysia', is not only famed for its paddy fields but also for its aromatic and distinctive culinary tradition, with Laksa Kedah reigning as a regional favourite. This northern delight is a testament to the state's culinary landscape, offering a unique twist on the traditional Malaysian laksa.

THE ESSENCE OF LAKSA KEDAH

Unlike its Penang counterpart, Laksa Kedah is celebrated for its fish-based broth that harmoniously blends flaked mackerel, tamarind, lemongrass, and chillies, creating a sour yet slightly spicy flavour profile. This soup is then lovingly ladled over a bed of rice noodles and garnished with a generous helping of sliced cucumber, onion, and chillies for an added crunch. A final touch of fragrant polygonum leaves (daun kesum) completes this dish, enhancing its authentic flavour.

A RECIPE TO BRING KEDAH TO YOUR KITCHEN

To recreate this Kedahan marvel in your own kitchen, gather the following ingredients for a serving of four:

500g mackerel or sardine

200g rice noodles (vermicelli), blanched

1 litre water

1 stalk lemongrass, bruised

1 piece tamarind pulp (asam keping), or to taste

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon sugar, or to taste

1 cucumber, julienned

1 red onion, thinly sliced

2 red chillies, sliced

A handful of polygonum leaves (daun kesum), finely chopped

4 tablespoons chilli paste (adjust based on preferred spiciness)

For the Chilli Paste:

10 dried chillies, soaked and deseeded

4 shallots

2 cloves garlic

1/2 teaspoon belacan (shrimp paste), toasted

INSTRUCTIONS:

Begin by preparing the chilli paste. Blend the dried chillies, shallots, garlic, and belacan to a smooth paste, then sauté in a pan until fragrant. Set aside.

Boil the mackerel with lemongrass and tamarind pulp in water until the fish is cooked through. Remove the fish, debone, and flake the meat.

Strain the broth, return to the pot, and bring to a simmer. Add salt, sugar, and half of the prepared chilli paste. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

To assemble, place a portion of rice noodles in a bowl. Spoon over the hot soup and top with flaked fish, cucumber, red onion, chillies, and a sprinkle of chopped polygonum leaves.

Serve hot with a side of the remaining chilli paste for those who desire an extra kick.

This Laksa Kedah recipe not only offers a taste of the state's rich gastronomic heritage but also embodies the warmth and hospitality of Kedahan culture. Whether enjoyed in a humble kitchen or a bustling market, Laksa Kedah remains a beloved dish that captivates with every spoonful.

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