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Love, pain and loss at historic Ukraine cemetery

AT a historic military cemetery in the western Ukrainian city of Lviv, Valeriy Pushko lights up two cigarettes.

One is for himself, the other for his son whose portrait is fixed to a cross planted in the ground.

"I smoke with my son," said the grey-haired man. "We used to take cigarette breaks together. It's a bad habit but it makes things easier. I talk to him, think about him and that makes me feel better."

Pushko said many others came here to smoke with their fallen husbands or sons.

Located in southeastern Lviv, the Lychakiv cemetery is one of the oldest graveyards in Europe and is often compared to the historic Père Lachaise in Paris, where dozens of celebrities are buried.

It is the resting place of prominent figures, including poet Ivan Franko and thousands of soldiers who died in World War I and II.

Since Russia invaded Ukraine over a year ago, rows of new graves have appeared. A sea of blue-and-yellow Ukrainian flags and red-and-black nationalist banners mark them.

Some mourners leave stuffed animals, cigarettes, and cups of coffee at the graves of their loved ones. More unusual symbols of love and sorrow included children's drawings, vinyl records, a golf ball, and a bottle of beer.

Shortly after the Russian invasion in February 2022, authorities began burying soldiers killed in fighting at the Lychakiv cemetery.

But the area, initially designated for military burials, quickly filled up, said city official Oleg Pidpysetsky.

The authorities then began laying Ukrainian servicemen to rest at a new site bordering Lychakiv.

Funerals are held nearly every day in the new burial ground. Called the Field of Mars, it now contains about 350 graves.

Oleg, 55, one of the mourners who came to visit a friend's grave, called the losses "irreparable".

"We will have our victory of course, but this is the price we pay. And that is not the end."

"These people gave their lives for us."

Oleg mourns the loss of his 45-year-old friend also called Oleg.

"Unfortunately, nothing can be done now. Thousands of Russians will not replace my Oleg," he said bitterly.

Kyiv does not reveal the number of its military casualties but Western officials say more than 100,000 Ukrainians have been killed or wounded.

Olga, who came to visit her brother-in-law's grave, said the mementos people left "is all that's left, the only connection with their heroes".

Vyacheslav Sabelnikov, who served in the infantry before receiving a serious injury, said several men he fought with were buried at the cemetery.

Anna Mikheyeva, 44, a social worker, came to visit her son Mykhailo's grave. He was killed last year at 25.

Mikheyeva said she often brought her son things he liked, including Coca-Cola, sweets and cigarettes.

She said she felt calm at the Field of Mars."There are only young people here. They are like sons and brothers to me. When I come, I always say 'Hi, guys'. And I always, always thank them."

The writer is from the Agence France-Presse news agency

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