HONG KONG: It is the “king of fruits”, yet it rules over a deeply divided court. It is an aphrodisiac with an offensive odour, a pungent, ugly and thorn-covered delicacy that tastes so sweet to some, yet smells so foul to others. It teases discerning palates with a flavour that is at once savoury, sweet and creamy, yet torments olfactory organs with a scent likened to turpentine, rotting flesh and gym socks.
True to its divisive reputation, the durian is now kicking up a stink between the agricultural sectors of Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand – and China’s caught in the middle.
The first whiff of trouble came with the announcement that a three-day, Malaysian government-backed “Durian King Festival” would open in Nanning, China, on Friday.
That got Malaysia’s durian growers licking their lips at the prospect that the festival could pave the way to unfettered access to the Chinese market – the main objective of the festival, according to agricultural officials in Kuala Lumpur. At present, China does not allow the import of fresh durians from Malaysia, only frozen pulp.
The prospect of that restriction being lifted may have whetted Malaysian appetites, but it has left a bitter aftertaste in neighbouring Singapore and Thailand.
Singapore frets that a green light for Malaysia to begin fresh durian shipments to China would push up prices of the fruit, with local retailers forced to compete for supply with wealthy Chinese buyers.
And Thailand, the world’s top durian producing nation, fears the development could spell the end for its virtual monopoly of the lucrative Chinese market.
Beijing has granted a one-off approval for Malaysia to ship in four tonnes of fresh durian to the festival in the capital city of Guangxi province.
A high-powered official delegation led by agriculture minister Shabery Cheek and parliament speaker Pandikar Amin Mulia will attend the event, which organisers expect to draw 100,000 durian aficionados.
Organisers say the festival – co-organised with the Chinese government and private firms from both Malaysia and China – will also be attended by “senior” Chinese officials. They have also touted the event as being part of Malaysia’s support for Beijing’s Belt and Road Initiative, which seeks to rebuild the ancient Silk Road trade route.
Malaysia for years has been knocking on the door of China’s durian market – the world’s largest.
China received some 594,128 tonnes of durian shipments last year, including the 301,700 tonnes that were re-exported to the mainland from Hong Kong, according to UN data.
China has depended on Thailand for its durian stock mainly because the Southeast Asian country’s varieties can be harvested just before they ripen, making overseas shipments convenient. Malaysian durians, on the other hand, tend to be left to ripen on the tree and ferment quickly after being harvested, making exports to China an arduous task compared to shipments to neighbouring Singapore.
Still, Chinese demand for a particular Malaysian variety – the Mao Shan Wang or “Civet Cat King” durian – has soared in recent years. In Malaysia it is called “Musang King”.
To satisfy this craving, Beijing’s General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine in 2011 started allowing Malaysian durians onto the mainland’s shores, but only the Musang King variety in frozen pulp form.
That provision came after then-premier Wen Jiabao visited Malaysia and sanctioned the shipments.
The surge in Chinese demand has been a boon for local producers, with domestic prices for premium AAA Musang King currently hovering at around RM130 (HK$240) per kg, from around RM50 per kg five years ago. In China, the same breed retails at the equivalent of around RM150 per kg.
With increased air and sea links between the two countries, plantation owners and durian lovers say there is no reason to maintain restrictions on fresh exports. Some Chinese tourists reportedly vacuum wrap intact, fresh durians to bring them home on board flights. (CONTINUED)
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