WHEN it comes to skincare, the buzzwords now are "natural", "plant-based" or "cruelty-free".
As consumers become more educated about what goes into their skincare and onto their faces, they are more likely to source for products that are safe or skin-friendly but don't compromise on efficacy.
Plant-based products are those that contain ingredients derived from plants, like plant oils or extracts, explains Kimberley Ho, co-founder of the plant-based family skincare line Evereden.
Unfortunately, "plant-based" is not a regulated term, and brands are not required to meet a standard percentage of plant-based ingredients before printing this claim on their labels, she explains.
Often, terms such as "natural" and "plant-based" are thrown about but many don't realise that these are marketing terms that don't have concrete definitions, nor are they vetted by third-party organisations and watchdog agencies.
ALL THAT IS GREEN
"Green washing is rampant, with many skincare brands misleadingly marketing their products as greener than they truly are," says Ho.
The rise in plant-based skincare is a direct response to growing concerns around safety in cosmetics.
This trend is part of a larger wellness movement to reduce exposure to environmental toxins in what we eat, drink, and use.
Within the past decade, consumers have become increasingly aware of and alarmed by findings revealing that certain skincare ingredients are not only irritants and allergens, but also potential carcinogens (cancer-causing agents) and endocrine disruptors (substances that mimic and interfere with our body's hormones), leading to lasting impacts on our health, mood, metabolism, and reproductive processes, says Ho.
"Although this concern around safety is warranted, Some consumers have become afraid of chemicals and have the incorrect notion that all chemical ingredients are bad while all botanical ingredients are good."
Skincare formulations can be manufactured using high quality botanicals as well as safe, effective synthetic ingredients.
It's important to recognise that not all plant-based ingredients are safe and eco-friendly.
The "natural versus synthetic" conversation is grossly oversimplified, says Ho.
In some cases, synthetics require less water and labour than botanical ingredients.
Certain plants are also being overharvested, harming instead of protecting the environment.
Countless skin-sensitisers are plant-based as well. An extreme example is poison ivy which is clearly harmful; but there's also lavender essential oil, a common ingredient lurking in the home that is a skin irritant and potential hormone disruptor, explains Ho.
"Consumers need to be savvy about exactly what they apply to their faces and bodies by looking beyond terms like plant-based, natural, and clean to assess safety."
As these claims also mean different things across different brands, it's important to investigate these definitions and see if any external experts or organisations can verify its safety.
ORGANIC VERSUS PLANT-BASED
HOW does plant-based differ from organic where skincare is concerned?
Unlike "plant-based", "organic" claims in skincare can be substantiated. But the term organic is still loosely used by many brands and should only be trusted when it comes with an official certification from an accredited agency, such as Ecocert or USDA.
USDA strictly refers to organic skincare as products that contain at least 95 per cent organically produced ingredients (excluding water and salt) – this means ingredients grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers, or other synthetic substances.
WHAT TO AVOID IN SKINCARE
*Parabens
*Phthalates
*Sulphates
*Synthetic fragrances
*Petrolatum
*Chemical sunscreens
GO NATURAL
Rosehip Oil
Repairs, restores, brightens.
Grapeseed Oil
Helps skin retain moisture.
Avocado Oil
Hydrates and nourishes skin.
Centella Asiatica
Boosts skin repair and collagen production.
Calendula
Helps with rashes and irritation.
Sunflower Seed Oil
Promotes a strong skin barrier.
Oat Extract
Provides soothing anti-inflammatory support to skin.
Shea butter
Antioxidant rich oil that conditions and softens skin.
Argan Oil
Rich in antioxidants and vitamins.
Source: Evereden
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