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STAY: On the heritage trail

Unwind in the historical heartland of Singapore surrounding Balestier Road, writes Angela Goh.

OLD Singapore is very much alive at Balestier Road, a "living museum" showcasing 180 years of storied history and where traditional artisans still ply their trade.

Now a thriving food hub, Balestier Road was named after Joseph Balestier, Singapore's first US Consul (appointed in 1836). Like many a great story, the area grew from humble beginnings as sugarcane estates, tiger-infested jungle and swamps.

Today, visitors can immerse in the bygone days on the Balestier Heritage Trail, stretching from Balestier Road to Novena Church on Thomson Road. In the heart of this heritage district is Ramada Singapore at Zhongshan Park in an enviable location melding leisure, business, history and delectable cuisine.

After a swift hassle-free check in, I get to my room which has a smartphone charged and ready with unlimited 3G connectivity. A few swipes on the device for navigation, then it's off to discover the neighbourhood.

I take Ramada's free shuttle to Velocity@ Novena Square shopping complex for lunch and shopping among its concentration of outdoor and sports goods shops.

The seven-minute ride ends behind Velocity, at the same location where the Kuala Lumpur-Singapore First Coach bus terminates. Novena MRT station is underground, opening up even more retail and adventurous possibilities beyond.

I eschew the return shuttle to the hotel, preferring to walk off my lunch, taking a 15-minute stroll under a covered walkway from Tan Tock Seng Hospital to Irrawaddy Road which joins Balestier Road. I enter through Zhongshan Mall, a small community mall adjoining the hotel.

Still energised, I begin the heritage trail at Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall, lying diagonally across the hotel's Ah Hood Road entrance.

Housed in a villa, this was where key uprisings for the 1911 Chinese Revolution were hatched. Next to it is a Burmese Buddhist temple, whose community's connection is reflected in side streets named after places in Myanmar.

From pre-war terrace shophouses with European accents to the 1980s cubestacked 18-storey Balestier Point building, the trail unveils Singapore's eclectic architectural style.

The road sign for Jalan Ampas catches my eye. It resonates with Malaysians as it is the site of Shaw Brothers Film Studios where Malaysia's legendary artiste, the late Tan Sri P. Ramlee, produced his masterpieces.

At the corner of Boon Teck Road is Singapore's oldest drinking water dispenser.

A nearby Chinese temple has been providing clean drinking water since the 1920s to rickshaw pullers and the destitute.

Step into Lim Kay Khee Optical House and be transported back in time. From its original mosaic floor tiles to age-old eye test instruments, these valuable and characterful pieces of history remain in use.

Next door, Lam Yeo coffee powder shop is still unchanged in look and feel, selling fresh coffee beans from around the world. Another quaint but thriving establishment is Sweetlands Confectionery, which has been baking bread for over 50 years. Turn into Kim Keat Lane and be led by the fragrant aroma from the bakery.

Chicken rice aficionados will appreciate that Boon Tong Kee and Loy Kee chicken rice shops are featured along Balestier Road. Head for more variety at Whampoa and Balestier Markets.

By the end of the day, I retire to a comfortable, spacious room overlooking Zhongshan Park and an unfettered view of the cityscape.

When hunger strikes, there is a choice of a quick bite at Heritage Bar and Lounge or a hearty, relaxing meal at Flavours At Zhongshan Park restaurant, serving "hawkerlicious" buffet spreads.

Balestier is one of the few places in Singapore where you can take it slow and easy.

FAST FACTS

RAMADA SINGAPORE AT ZHONGSHAN PARK

16 Ah Hood Road, Singapore

TEL +65 6808 6888

EMAIL info@ramadasingapore.com

WEBSITE www.ramadasingapore.com

STAY

382 rooms with park or city views. Each offers king or super-single beds fitted with premium Serta mattresses. Free WiFi and use of a smartphone with unlimited 3G connection and free international calls to selected countries (Malaysia included).

EAT

Flavours At Zhongshan Park restaurant offers modern Asian cuisine and Western favourites. Heritage Bar & Lounge serves snacks and refreshments.

DO

Go on the Balestier Heritage Trail, taking in historical sights and local eats at Whampoa Market and Balestier Market. Chill at the outdoor swimming pool.

HIGHS

Free shuttle to Novena MRT station at Velocity Mall. 15 minutes' drive to the Central Business District, Marina Bay, Clarke Quay. Zhongshan Mall, adjoining the hotel has a supermarket, retail shops and a small foodcourt. A flexible meeting-event space of 540sq m and a reception foyer for preevent cocktails.

LOWS

The nearest MRT station is Novena at Velocity@Novena Square under 10 minutes by hotel shuttle.

TRAVEL FILE

SCOOT flies daily to Singapore from Kuala Lumpur. Twice on Tuesday and Wednesday, thrice on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, and four times on Friday and Sunday. Details at www.flyscoot.com

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