Solo, also known as Surakarta, is considered the centre of Javanese culture and tourism, writes Andrew Drummond Law.
THE atmosphere when I first enter the theatre is electric. I take a VIP seat in the front row, with the best view of the gamelan orchestra warming up. The musicians dressed in their white coloured tunics and batik headdresses practice with their wooden red and golden xylophones, drums and gongs.
The sindhen, female singers with their huge elegantly backcombed hairstyles, adjust their microphones. The audience filters in, children laughing and toddlers crying. The stage screen is lifted and there the actors stand in all their glory. It is a kaleidoscope of sound, colour and movement.
This is Wayang Orang Sriwedari Theatre. A visit to this theatre which is located at Sriwedari Cultural Park in Solo is a must. There you will witness classical Javanese dance theatre performances with stories and plots taken from Hindu epics such as the Mahabharata and Ramayana.
The combination of music, visual arts, language, drama and dance all showcase Javanese culture at its best. Originally intended for the entertainment of the aristocracy in their royal palaces, wayang orang soon became popular among the masses.
Although I do not speak Javanese, the sights and sounds of the two-hour long Dasarata Krama drama are enough to understand that the story involves the age-old emotions of love, hate, jealousy and happiness.
Traditionally in the second act, the Javanese influence appears in the form of the Punakawan: the four clown servants to the hero. The idea being to introduce an element of comedy and laughter into the performance, sometimes in the form of political satire and current day society gossip.
Semar, a deity, is the guardian spirit of the island of Java. In Javanese mythology, deities can only be represented by ugly or inhumanlike forms. So he is always portrayed as short and fat with a squashed nose.
The other three are his adopted sons: Petruk: tall and skinny; Gareng: short with a clubfoot; and Bagong, who is obese. Even visually you can't help but laugh at and with them. Go and experience the ultimate in Javanese culture.
BATIK TELLS A STORY
Solo's most famous son, now the current President of Indonesia, Joko Widodo (AKA Jokowi), helped rebrand Solo while serving as its mayor, under the tagline "The Spirit of Java".
A two-hour long flight from KL, Solo is perfect for a four-day break of all things Javanese. And what could be more so than the world's best quality batik. Spend a morning at the Danar Hadi Museum of Batik and you will see more than a 1,000 of the finest examples. Can you imagine the workmanship involved in one piece that took four years to complete?
Here you will learn about the symbols of the Royal Courts of Jogjakarta and Solo, the Dutch colonial and Peranakan style, and how the designs differ from the coastal batik. There are even examples from the time of the Japanese occupation.
Unfortunately no photography is allowed.
So either take home only sweet memories, or purchase some high quality batik after the guided tour.
Kampung Batik Laweyan and Kauman is another attraction to fill your morning, where you can see the different stages of batik making.
To see where the best batik would have been worn, visit the Mangkunegaran Palace during the cooler morning. Dating back to 1757, it is the home of the second house of Solo. Its mix of Javanese and European architectural styles also make it the perfect scene for classic dance and puppet performances. The mandatory guide is a fountain of Javanese knowledge.
MAKAN SOLO
Solo's food is also its culture; so find time for a favourite delicious local delicacy. Tender marinated goat meat, skewered and grilled on charcoal, and served with sweet soya sauce or peanut sauce. Hungry yet?
But beware. When you leave the Sate Kambing Pak Bejo Sangkrah restaurant, the delicious aroma of its grilled satay on your clothes will follow you everywhere.
Triwindu antiques market is another Solo must-visit. Its stalls sell all manner of souvenirs, antiques, and junk. The fun is in working out which is which! Wooden statues and intricately carved panels, enamel house-ware and old iceshaving machines rub shoulders with puppets, framed black-and-white photos of Solo royalty, and Dutch colonial lamps. Bargain hard! For a daytrip visit Mount Lawu on the border of Central and East Java and explore Candi Sukuh and Ceto. But if you get easily carsick, the route's windy and steep roads may be too much for you.
The former of these 15th century Javanese-Hindu temples is a complex of pyramids with reliefs and statues with a fertility theme.
While Candi Ceto's gateways will remind you of those found in Bali.
For a relaxing lunch nearby try the Bale Branti Tea-Art-Culture mountain restaurant.
Sample its different fruit flavoured teas or eat the sego kumbokarnan with nasi hangat, terik daging sapi, sambel goring kentang, acar buncis and krupuk udang — all delicious. As is the tempeh. And for dessert, the pohong kluwo areh Jawa.
Still hungry? Then visit one of the many warungs that sit on the mountain's edge overlooking the valleys. Try Warung Makan Mbak Wulan for its mouth-watering hedgehog and rabbit satay.
Back in Solo City my favourite is a lunch at Omah Selat restaurant. The selat iga bakar is to die for. But it is the restaurant's eclectic interior of Javanese, Balinese, Chinese and Dutch that is the must-see. The red and golden wooden panels, Dutch lamps and glassware, Chinese lanterns and ceramics, and Javanese furniture. All attesting to a history and culture enriched by its diversity.
TREATED LIKE ROYALTY
STAY at the Royal Surakarta Heritage Solo MGallery by Sofitel and feel like royalty. Located in the city centre, it is perfect for leisure and business travellers alike.
Housed in a former bank building, the exterior's clean modern lines belie the treasures inside. With its Javanese heritage theme, it mixes the best of modern with traditional.
At the main entrance a doorman stands guard in traditional Javanese clothing, holding a long staff, wearing a two-pointed black hat and jacket embroidered with red, blue and white detailing.
To reach the lobby front desk you walk across a red carpet, like royalty, and pass by beautiful examples of wayang golek (rod puppets), colonial-style lamps, wooden carvings, and Javanese motifs are everywhere.
From behind the front desk four very famous, and short, smiling gentlemen stare up at you. These Punakawan statues are the trusty clown servants from Javanese wayang performances that always help the hero.
Around the hotel you can also see wooden Javanese couple statues, called Loro Blonyo — the inseparable couple that symbolise harmony. Placed in a Javanese home its inhabitants live peacefully.
And that feeling of peace permeates throughout the hotel.
CONVENIENCE
Located in central Solo, the hotel is within a 15-minute walk of the Radya Museum Library, the Mangkunegaran Palace, and the Solo Paragon Lifestyle Mall. Klewer Market and Gede Market are also within a two-km radius. And Triwindu market, with its antiques, bric-a-brac and souvenirs, is only a 15-minute walk away.
But before you go outdoors to explore, you must first fuel up at Srikandi, the hotel restaurant that serves both local and international cuisine. I notice a starter on the menu, a soup called Soto Widodo, "a gift from Solo to Indonesia", paying homage to Indonesia's President Joko Widodo and his hometown.
Try the Nasi Campur Punakawan with its unique selection of Solo specialities — it is mouth-watering.
Although perhaps I should have sampled the Tengkleng Kambing in spicy turmeric broth that sounded delicious too.
Or order the 24-hour room service, if you want to eat in private.
The Royal burger beef patty with tomato, mushroom, fried egg and avocado is tasty and filling. The chicken quesadillas served with avocado guacamole and jalapeno pickles, meanwhile, hit the spot.
FIT FOR A KING
My room suite is the perfect retreat.
The heavy-set wooden bed and wooden floors are offset by the brightly coloured rugs, lighting and Javanese fixtures.
But the acid test is how well I sleep through the night. And I do, comfortably and deeply.
My favourite detail is the colonialstyle lazy butler. The wooden stand with a hanger-shaped frame for your shirt, a drawer for your wallet and keys, and an upper and lower rail for your trousers and shoes. It is the perfect functional and heritage detail for OCD freaks like me.
Every Sunday in Solo is a carfree day, as the main road is shut off to traffic, making the hotel the perfect vantage point. But look out for speedy cyclists, rickshaws and double-decker tandem bicycles.
There are also group dance classes on the street — a cross between zumba and aerobics — with the ladies moving in perfect rhythm to the beat. And the men less so.
The hotel sits in the heart of Solo, where you can immerse yourself in its culture, art, food, and most importantly, its people.
Stay here and you will truly experience the spirit that is Java.
FAST FACTS
THE ROYAL SURAKARTA HERITAGE SOLO
Jalan Slamet Riyadi No.6, Pasar Kliwon, 57111 Solo (Surakarta), Indonesia
TEL (+62) 271 666111
FAX (+62) 271 666530
WEBSITE http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-9239-the-royal-surakarta-heritage-solo-m... index.shtml
STAY
There are 150 rooms, including 11 suites.
All with traditional Javanese interior styling complemented with bathtub and shower, WiFi and flat screen television.
EAT
Srikandi restaurant offers local and international cuisine, plus 24-hour room service. The breakfast spread is amazing. There is also the Tirto Tedjo open-air pool bar, if you're after a refreshing evening cocktail.
DO
Do the Solo heritage bicycle tour. The hotel will arrange a local guide to help you explore the neighbourhood's cottage industries and bysofitel/ index.shtml STAY There are 150 rooms, including 11 suites. All with traditional Javanese interior styling complemented with bathtub and shower, WiFi and flat screen television.
EAT
Srikandi restaurant offers local and international cuisine, plus 24-hour room service.
The breakfast spread is amazing. There is also the Tirto Tedjo open-air pool bar, if you're after a refreshing evening cocktail.
DO
Do the Solo heritage bicycle tour. The hotel will arrange a local guide to help you explore the neighbourhood's cottage industries and learn about Javanese culture. All attractions are closeby, including the famous Keraton Palace, Triwindu antique market, batik shopping, and local restaurants offering delicious food. End your busy day with a relaxing Royal Massage at the hotel's Mustika Spa.
HIGHS
Its central location and, most importantly, the hotel staff: friendly, professional and discrete.
LOWS
The swimming pool is covered but opensided, so topping up your suntan is not an option.
Luckily this makes it an all-weather pool to be used even when raining.
TRAVEL TALE
ULTIMATE WAYANG ORANG
Wayang Orang Sriwedari, Sriwedari Cultural Park, Jalan Slamet Riyadi 275, Solo, Indonesia
HOUR Daily performances, except Sundays.
PAY IDR 5000, IDR 7500 and VIP tickets IDR 10,000.