At Kampung Peta by Endau-Rompin National Park, Zulkifly Ab Latif takes part in an annual three-day festival
“SEE? That MyVi car also made it all the way here,” I point and laugh as the Proton Waja I am in rolls to a stop near an outdoor hall.
“Shut up. We’re still lucky the car didn’t fall apart!” answers Zulkifly Mohd Supri, my travel companion whom I cajoled into following me on this impromptu trip. He is visibly tired and a little cranky, which is quite understandable after a 2½-hour drive through 60 km of bumpy and dusty dirt roads that took us past sand mines, oil palm plantations and Orang Asli villages.
“We should have taken the park’s off-road vehicle transfer,” grumbles Zulkifly as he inspects his car for any visible damage.I don’t reply but wholehearted agree, and silently give thanks that it didn’t rain throughout our journey or we would have been in trouble due to the resulting muddy and slippery road.
It is by no coincidence then that many travel guides specifically mention that an off-road vehicle is an advantage when travelling here. We are in Kampung Peta, an Orang Asli settlement inhabited by the Jakun tribe.
The village is situated next to Endau Rompin National Park — Peta, a pristine and protected rainforest located within the district of Mersing, Johor.
Satisfied that his car will not need any major repairs, Zulkifly and I make our way down to the river banks by Kampung Peta where a crowd of villagers and tourists are gathering. It is here that he gets a first glimpse of the reason I insisted on visiting Endau Rompin, Peta: the majestic Sungai Endau, fringed with verdant green rainforests.
Down in the shallow Endau river, a traditional bamboo raft race is being held, which is one of the activities organised as part of a Jakun festival celebrated annually within the village on Aug 8 and held over a span of three days.We are here to take in the sights and perhaps learnalittle more of the traditions and culture of the tribe that calls Endau- Rompin, Peta home.
HUNTER-GATHERER TRIBE
The Jakun tribe has made the river and the nearby rainforest its home for countless generations and before the development of Johor’s Endau Rompin National Park. As such, the people and their way of living are now a cultural attraction for the National Park’s visitors.
Although a visit to the National Park on any other occasion will include various demonstrations on how the Jakun hunt, trap and live in the jungle of Endau-Rompin,
visitors to the village during the festival are treated to special performances during the nights. It is during one of these performances that I get to see the village men in traditional Jakun attire, consisting of loin cloths and vests made from the beaten bark of theTerap tree, a type of wild bread-fruit tree.
The traditional clothes are a reminder of the hunter-gatherer days of the Jakun people. Making these Terap clothes is time consuming and labour-intensive, requiring days of beating the tree bark and soaking it in water to soften the fibres.
Although the Jakun people have embraced modern attire, it is good to see that they have not forgotten how to make their traditional clothes.
SACRED DAY
It is the second day of my stay in Endau Rompin National Park, Peta and I am on the back of the park’s pickup truck headed towards Kem Pacau. We are headed to a particular spot near Pacau called Jeram Puteri Bongsu, as it is called by the Jakun tribe.
It is here that the villagers of Kampung Peta have gathered to conduct a traditional ceremony to appease spirits they believe inhabit the surrounding rainforests and rivers.
Having lived and relied on these surrounds for countless generations, the Jakun people of Peta subscribe to an animistic belief system tied to geographical areas within or near the National Park.
Built on the sandy river bank near the sacred cascade is a platform or dais made from bamboo. Called pancur in Malay (which means “shower”), water from the cascade is gathered inside various bamboo poles then hung over the platform.
The bamboo is then pierced near the bottom, releasing the water over the villagers standing on the platform. According to Burn, one of the Jakun villagers (who is also a certified nature guide in the national park), the water contained within the bamboos is believed to be healing and protective in nature, and one is supposed to pray for their own well-being while beingshowered with it.
Sitting with rangers from the park as well as other tourists, I silently and respectfully watch the villagers go through the rituals, supervised by the village elders.
To say that it makes for interesting viewing is an understatement. It also signifies how the Jakun community is intrinsically tied to the pristinely beautiful rivers and jungles of Endau-Rompin National Park.
WILD AND NATURAL BEAUTY
With the Jakun ceremony done, it is now time to explore some of the natural attractions within Endau-Rompin National Park, Peta.
Having met up with Herman Riswan, the manager of the park, I learn that the park has been newly reopened after almost a year of being closed for upgrades and renovations.
Joining some of his employees, we decide to visit Kuala Marong, a campsite located near the confluence of the Jasin and Marong river 4km away from Kuala Jasin, the main recreational site for those visiting Endau Rompin National via the Kampung Peta gateway.
On foot, it takes about an hour’s leisurely pace to reach the Kuala Marong campsite.
Here, the main attraction is undoubtedly the crystal clear river that is a designated kelah (or the fish known as Malaysian mahseers) sanctuary. From a wooden platform built near the campsite’s riverbank, one can see kelah and other species of freshwater fish swimming in the water below.
Mishazmil Abdul Rahim, one of the national park’s rangers, shows me the recently upgraded facilities of the campsite, consisting of an outdoor dining hall, bathrooms and Muslim prayer huts. Built on a larger area, the new campsite at Kuala
Marong is far more comfortable and can now accommodate larger camping groups.
From Kuala Marong there are trails to three other attractions of the national park, which are Upeh Guling Falls, Buaya Sangkut Falls and the Blue Lake.
Both Upeh Guling and Buaya Sangkut are magnificent cascades, with Buaya Sangkut requiring eight hours of trekking to and from.
Due to having started our trek late in the day after attending the Jakun tribe ritual, we decide to visit the Blue Lake instead.
Taking the trail leading upstream of Marong river, it is only a half kilometre trek to Tasik Air Biru or Blue Lake, a serene fresh water pool. The pool water has a bluish,
almost greenish tint, hence its name.
The almost crystal clear water is inviting and refreshing, and freshwater fish can be seen swimming about. Unable to resist, Zulkifly immediately jumps into the pool with a large splash. He suddenly resurfaces with a loud gasp, saying thepool is cold and deep.
Indeed, the pool’s clarity is a bitdeceptive, and as such the national park management has fixed a floatation device at the lake’s rest area as a safety precaution for visitors.
PRISTINE TROPICAL RAINFOREST
COVERING an area of 19,562 hectares, Endau-Rompin National Park, Peta is a pristine tropical rainforest with varied and unique landscapes that are millions of years old.
Along with the unique traditions and lifestyle of the Jakun community of Kampong Peta, a visit to Endau-Rompin, Peta is an eye-opening experience and one not easily forgotten.
Realising the tourism potential of the Jakun festival held here on Aug 8 annually, there is also a blowpipe competition as well as a tour package organised by the Johor City and Nature Tour Guide Association.
Although still in its infancy stage, the Johor Sumpit Challenge is a good start towards promoting the unique culture of the Jakun people of Peta as well as the natural splendour of the national park.
FAST FACTS
ENDAU-ROMPIN National Park has two entrances: Kampung Peta in the district of Kluang, Johor, and Kampung Selai in the district of Segamat, Johor.
The Peta entrance is accessible from Kahang town and although self-drive is possible, it is risky and not advisable for normal cars. Tansport via offroad vehicles, arranged by the national park’s management, is highly recommended.
ENDAU-ROMPIN (PETA) JOHOR NATIONAL PARK
11, Jalan Bawal 1 Taman Kahang Baru Kahang Kluang, Johor
TEL 07-788 2812
EMAIL enquiry@johorparks.com.my
WEBSITE www.johorparks.com.my