FOREIGN. That’s how I feel when I drive into the capital of this East Coast state. My brain knows that I’m still in Malaysia but somehow my heart is missing terribly the familiarities of home. Suffice to say, there’s a different kind of vibe here. The quaint little town of Kota Baru, Kelantan, located in the northeast of the country, is to be my “port” for more than a fortnight as I’ve been assigned to assist the NST’s bureau office with election related duties. This is the first time that I’m going to be spending such a lengthy time in a state that’s pretty alien to me up to this point.
Fortunately, if there’s one thing that can ease that sense of homesickness and provide some semblance of comfort, it is food. And Kota Baru, Kelantan’s riverside Royal capital, certainly has plenty to delight the palate. Even before I made my long drive here, my Kelantanese friend had prepared me with a list of must-try food.
There’s sup urat keting (tendon soup), teh ais madu (honey milk tea), and satay that she promises can even give the famous Sate Kajang Hj Samuri a run for its money. Then there’s all the delicious traditional kuih which originate from the east coast but many are not familiar with, such as tahi itik (literally translated as duck poop), a sweet snack made of egg white and sugar water. My friend also enthusiastically suggested Nasi Ulam Cikgu for lunch where one can tuck into a wide array of ulam (raw vegetables) and Malay dishes at a very reasonable price.
But what about breakfast? I recall asking my friend on WhatsApp, thinking of my oft-rumbling stomach at the start of any new day. I duly discover that the Kelantanese tend to have a very heavy breakfast that will last them through the day. Forget scrambled eggs and orange juice. What you see at breakfast is what you’d normally see served for lunch in restaurants in KL.
“Don’t be alarmed if you see rice with so many dishes, or nasi dagang and nasi kerabu served at the restaurants for breakfast, ya?” another friend informs me, before elaborating that nasi dagang is a well-known breakfast food in Kelantan and Terengganu.
The combination of fenugreek seeds and coconut milk gives the rice its unique flavour and fragrance. Meanwhile, nasi kerabu is the blue-coloured rice eaten with dried fish or fried chicken, crackers, pickles and salads. The blue colour of the rice is derived from the petals of Clitoria ternatea or the butterfly-pea flowers.
With all these useful tips in mind, I’m certainly raring to explore what Kelantan has to offer.
KOPITIAM KITA
MY first day in my new “home” dawns bright and sunny and the air is still. With time to kill, I take the opportunity to explore beyond the town and my hotel area which is located in Jalan Maju. The simple hotel situated within a bright corner building with a colourful dome is a mere eight-minute walk from the bustling Siti Khadijah market, an “attraction” I’ve put down as one of my must-visit places during my stay here.
Today, my Waze is set for Rantau Panjang, the tax-free zone bordering Thailand located an hour away from the town centre. The place is famous for its bargain items such as batik fabric, headscarves and the highly popular comforters or toto as it’s known among Malaysians.
Knowing that I’ll be doing a lot of walking in Rantau Panjang, I decide to make a stop at an eatery to get my fill that I hope will last me through the day.
“Kopitiam Kita”, the voice drawls from my Waze. Established in 2010 by a Chinese Kelantanese by the name of Wong Nye Hua, this place, which opens from 6am until 2pm, is highly recommended for its hearty breakfast.
Trying to locate a parking spot is rather a challenge as both sides of the roads are already occupied with vehicles. The sun is not getting any friendlier so I quicken my pace after finding a parking spot a little way away from the restaurant. I arrive only to discover the eatery full to the brim with customers from all walks of life.
Taking a seat at a table which is already occupied by a woman and her two young children, I note with interest a group of elderly men chatting merrily near my table. Further ahead, a big family group is tucking into their breakfast, their carefree laughter ringing in the air. There’s not a single vacant table anywhere. Wait staff careen briskly from one end of the kopitiam to another, trying to cater to every customer, shouting their orders across to the kitchen crew in their unmistakeable Kelantan dialect.
Many customers make a beeline for the dagang, nasi kerabu, and kuih, among others) which are neatly placed in trays on the table against the wall of fame where photographs of customers — and also celebrities such as Datuk Siti Nurhaliza — are displayed.
The packed food, I soon learn, are supplied from different areas in Kota Baru as well as from other districts which Wong, who’s in his 60s, collects early every morning on his motorcycle to be sold at his shop. For example, there’s nasi lemak from Wakaf Baru and nasi berlauk (rice with dishes) from Tanah Merah and Tumpat.
This kopitiam is famous for its roti titab, a thick warm toast served with a half-boiled egg in the middle and homemade coconut-based kaya spread onto all four corners. The combination is rather unusual but surprisingly delicious. The kaya isn’t too sweet and it balances the saltiness of the egg. Pair it with a cup of black coffee (or hot tea) served in a classic floral cup and you’re all set.
As the place starts to heave with more people, I decide to take my leave so that the next customer can have his share of the roti titab. Next: Rantau Panjang and some cheap shopping!
Kopitiam Kita
Where Jalan Sri Cemerlang, Taman Desa Jasa, Kota Baru, Kelantan
Tel 019-981 0888
Operating hours Daily (7am - 1.30pm)
www.facebook.com/KopitiamKitaRotiTitab
KEDAI KOPI WHITE HOUSE
IT’S another sunny morning in Kota Baru. With again some time to kill before my assignment at 11, I decide to take a leisurely drive to another eatery for my morning fix. Parking is not a problem this time as just next to the kedai kopi (coffee shop) is a huge parking spot at the square, famous for the Sultan Ismail Petra Arch, one of the most prominent structures in the capital. This arch was erected to commemorate the declaration of Kota Baru as a cultural city with the vision to preserve the Malay culture. The effort was spearheaded by Sultan Ismail Petra, hence the name of the arch.
By the sight of the classic signage above the entrance door, I deduce that this kopitiam-style shop on Jalan Sultanah Zainab has been around for quite some time. I learn from one of the customers that this small and simple Hainanese coffee shop furnished with the ubiquitous kopitiam fare of round and white marble-top tables and wooden chairs, and white tiled walls, opened its doors back in 1935.
Today, it’s owned by a sprightly 70-year-old called Siow Boon Suan, the son-in-law of the founder. When the shop first opened, the menu was modest, comprising just a simple roti bakar (toast) and half boiled eggs served with black coffee. Over time, the menu expanded to include other Kelantanese staples such as nasi kerabu, nasi dagang, and mixed rice.
If there’s one thing you need to have if you’re planning on dining here, it is patience. The place is perpetually crowded. But locals will tell you that it’s worth the wait. Especially for the toast. The combination of thick, warm crusty toast, butter and authentic kaya, which is light brown in colour, is simply delicious. The packed food of nasi kerabu, nasi dagang and nasi lemak do well too, and are snapped up by the crowd before you can blink.
To be honest, it baffles me why this place gets the crowd that it does as its simple menu of toast with the topping of your choice (kaya or butter), packed rice and drinks don’t seem to be anything out of the ordinary. Furthermore, I find the price to be surprisingly on the steep side. The not-so-friendly service and the shop’s no photography policy don’t help matters but... the locals love it anyway! I later learn that this coffee shop happens to receive frequent visits by the Kelantan Royal family. Ah, maybe that’s why!
Kedai Kopi White House
Where 1329-L, Jalan Sultanah Zainab, Kota Baru, Kelantan
Tel +60 9-748 4119.
Operating hours Saturday-Thursday (8am-1pm, 5pm-midnight)