WAGYU is a type of Japanese beef cattle that’s known for its marbling, which means that the meat (of the cattle) contains an unusually high amount of intra-muscular fat.
This, in turn, gives the meat an extremely tender and juicy texture. Restaurants are known for charging an exorbitant price for them, making them mostly a pipe dream for the average Malaysian.
As I find myself sitting at a table in the contemporary confines of Tony Roma’s, an American casual dining chain in a bustling local mall, waiting to indulge in a wagyu feast, I did wonder why this premium offering was suddenly available in a restaurant more synonymous for its BBQ beef ribs and refillable drinks?
Worried that my incredulity might be reflected on my face, I hush my curiosity and opt to peruse the menu instead.
A quick scan and then… RM164.05 a piece for Wagyu Ribeye and Wagyu NY Strip? The figures leap off the page and once again, I’m incredulous.
At 283g each, it’s certainly a generous portion. Furtively, I scan the other two options on offer for diners — the Wagyu Burger and a Wagyu Steak & Wild Mushroom Flatbread. Both are priced at RM55 each.
Surely this can’t be right, I mutter as I try to recall the astronomical amount I’d paid to indulge in wagyu in other restaurants prior to this visit.
“Maybe it’ll just be sub-standard fare,” I think to myself as I notice a wait staff making his way to the table.
LITMUS TEST
It’s the steaks that are served first. As I hesitantly cut into the Wagyu Ribeye, I’m pleasantly surprised to note that it’s akin to slicing into warm butter.
Gingerly placing a piece into my mouth, I couldn’t help but elicit a silent sigh of delight. The meat is silky and possesses a-melt-in-your-mouth quality that’s different from the average steak. More importantly, it’s cooked perfectly, with a strong sear but medium rare on the inside.
Suitably enthused, I turn my attention to the NY Strip, hoping that it too would be a winner. Slowly, I cut a piece and discover that it doesn’t quite have the same melt-in-your-mouth texture that the ribeye has.
But fret not. Those who enjoy a more robust steak would definitely love this option. And yes, it’s definitely wagyu.
The burger and flatbread are next to arrive. I smile happily at the wait staff as he places the items on the table with a flourish. My mind whirs again: How good can wagyu be when it’s made into something else?
Well, it can be VERY good! The burger, which comprises a slice of pure grilled Wagyu beef patty topped with delicious melted cheese, fresh iceberg lettuce, tomato and a secret blend of special sauce, turns out to be surprisingly tender, springy and juicy.
The best part? The fact that the burger is practically all meat and that the slightly rare interior is extremely succulent and slightly fatty, making it a hearty way to dine on wagyu.
Moving along, I turn my sight to the flatbread, which, truth be told, appears not in the least bit interesting.
Looking like a rectangular pizza with slices of medium rare steak, the dish didn’t initially entice me. But you know what they say? Don’t judge a book by its cover, and it’s certainly true in this case.
How I had misjudged it! The flatbread turns out to be crisp yet chewy, giving it an extremely pleasing texture. The addition of the melted Havarti cheese, a semi-soft Danish cow’s milk cheese and crumbled blue cheese infused the dish with a strong taste but this is somewhat sedated by the fragrant grilled wild mushrooms.
The best part is definitely the steak, which turns out to be made of grilled Wagyu NY Strip. Presented on the flatbread, the steak takes on a different dimension, its robust texture complimenting the chewy crust and the soft mushrooms, giving an overall pleasant experience.
ENRICHED DINING EXPERIENCE
Fully satiated and thrilled with my wagyu journey, I remain curious as to why this restaurant chain is able to offer such premium offerings at reasonable prices.
“Simple, our aim is to essentially enrich our customers’ dining experience,” replies Salleharon Ahmad, Tony Roma’s senior marketing manager, who happened to amble over just as I’m tucking into the last sliver of meat on my plate.
Pulling the chair next to me, the bespectacled gentleman elaborates: “We wanted to offer wagyu meat in different ways as well as make it more accessible. Yes, we’re known for our ribs, but we know that customers wouldn’t want to eat ribs 365 days of the year. So we developed these special dishes so that diners can have the option of trying something new from time to time.”
My unconvinced expression must have given me away because Salleharon immediately adds: “It’s true. We really just want to give everyone the opportunity to enjoy wagyu. A lot of people are put off from trying it because of the price. So we make it accessible. And we can do this because we’re an expert grill house. We can offer the kind of experience that might not be easily available elsewhere.”
Drop by any one of the 12 Tony Roma’s outlets in the country to enjoy the restaurant’s limited-time-only Wagyu Feast menu which features four lip-smacking main entree — the Wagyu Ribeye, Wagyu NY Strip, Wagyu Burger and the Wagyu Steak and Wild Mushroom Flatbread. Offer ends April 30.