Military memorabilia and Kelantanese food pair up in a unique dining experience at this cafe, writes Laveda Charles
History was my favourite subject in secondary school and in the early semesters of my degree. It taught me about World War I and II, however, I did not learn the fact that in 1941, the Japanese military invaded Kota Baru just 70 minutes before the attack on Pearl Harbour. I learn this from the owners of the TOKB Cafe (Taste of Kota Baru).
TOKB Cafe is probably Malaysia’s first military-concept cafe specialising mainly in Kelantanese food. Initially a little confused at the concept, things fall into place as I chat with cafe founders Lucas Lee and Bernard Tung.
The two-level cafe features indoor and semi-outdoors dining, and incorporates a viewing gallery. The wooden dining and lounge area tables are accessorised with army-green and yellow chairs. The main dining area is downstairs and the cosier mezzanine floor is for snacks and drinks.
In the air-conditioned portion, the first things that catch my eye are the antique military bikes on a raised platform. Suspended close to these bikes are miniature fighter planes — a Japanese Zero Raiden and British Hawker Hurricane. There are also miniature versions of British and Japanese warships.
The gallery features World War II memorabilia and newspaper articles and photographs. There is a painting depicting an ideal situation — of Japanese and British forces around a table filled with Kelantanese delicacies served at TOKB. There is even a Cosplay area where diners are able to try on military gear.
BUT WHY kELANTANESE FOOD?
Well, because Tung, a director of the cafè, and Lee, one of two head chefs, just love Kelantan fare.
The duo spent much time and effort scouting for the right chef for the northern Malaysian cuisine. They found Norma Salleh or Kak Ma, who is now the other head chef. Backed with 30 years of experience, she uses traditional recipes that were passed down the generations.
TOKB’s signature dishes are Nasi Kerabu (RM23) , Laksam (RM13.90) and Nasi Rocket or Nasi Tumpang (RM17.90). It also serves Nasi Dagang and Nasi Kukus. For variety, you can also order Western and Japanese meals from the menu.
The most attractive element in the Nasi Kerabu is the fluffy blue-coloured rice (the colour comes from naturally extracted butterfly pea flower). Served with that rice are crispy but tender, fried chicken, kerisik sambal ikan (roasted fish and coconut floss), solok lada (green chilli stuffed with grated coconut and fish), salted egg, bean sprouts, finely sliced long beans, cabbage, and sliced dark pinkish bunga kantan (ginger torch flower).
I prefer combining all the elements together before partaking in it for a lovely balance of flavours.
There is just the right balance of saltiness and spiciness with the two sauces (budu and tumis). It is nice to have a mix of textures — crunchiness of the vegetables and tender chicken with the rice. The aromatic bunga kantan adds a fresh taste to the dish.
Laksam (a Kelantanese laksa) is pretty unique with its rolled-up flat white noodles on a sweetish, creamy white fish and coconut gravy sprinkled with a pieces of bunga kantan, bean sprouts, long beans, with an egg and keropok on the side. It is acquired taste. It is also served with a side of sambal belacan for that extra “kick”.
Meanwhile, Nasi Rocket is so named because the rice is served in a cone shape. The dish reminds me of our Nasi Lemak because of how the fragrant white rice is wrapped in banana leaf. The rice has three layers — gulai udang (tiny shelled curried shrimp), gulai ikan tengkol (spicy red curried fish) and a choice of beef or fish serunding (floss). It is also served with a crispy fried chicken, sweet acar and keropok.
Also try the Nasi Dagang (RM5.30 for a standard rice rice) cooked with coconut milk or Nasi Kukus (plain white rice at RM.3.50). You can pair your rice with your favourite main dish such as the Ayam Goreng Kampung (RM12.90), a sweet and spicy Ayam Masak Merah (RM11.90), Ikan Keli Paprik (RM12.90), Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM11.90), Ikan Patin Masak Tempoyak (RM16.90) and Gulai Undang (RM14.90). If you’re not a fish person, do try the fish preparations here. The fish is well-seasoned and nice and fleshy.
TOKB offers snacks like Keropok Lekor which it makes well — crispy but not rubbery. The other snack that would be a nice tea-time dessert is the Roti C4 (named after a bomb!) which is toasted buttered bread with blobs of kaya at the four corners of the bread and a half-boiled egg in the centre. So when you cut into the egg, it seems like an explosion.
For drinks do try Teh Atom (Teh Madu), which is one of their signature drinks. The serving comes with a “messy” foam representing an aftermath of atomic explosions. It seems it took the owners six months to perfect (the foam). The drink is surprisingly even better than the normal Thai milk tea as it is not as sweet, even with the added honey.
The cafe has a loyalty programme where customers can for RM15 get a personalised military “dog tag” with their personal details engraved. One starts off with the rank of sergeant that gives you an eight per cent discount to general (22 per cent discount).
TOKB cafe
Ground Floor, Menara Inspiration (Avenue D’Vogue), No.3A, Jalan 13/2, Section 13, 46100 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Tel: 03-7624 5787
OPENING HOURS: Noon-9pm, Sunday to Thursday; noon-midnight, Friday and Saturday
GETTING THERE: If you’re coming from Kuala Lumpur, cut off at Jalan Universiti, Petaling Jaya. Head along the road and turn left at Jalan Kemajuan, first turn right (Nissan showroom), and first turn left. TOKB is on the right at Avenue D’Vogue (Menara Inspiration).
WHAT’S COOKING: Kelantanese cuisine
MUST TRY: Nasi Kerabu, Nasi Rocket, Laksam and Teh Atom
YOU’LL PAY: Prices range from RM3.90 to RM23 (excluding GST and service charge)
ATMOSPHERE: A quiet place to chill out. Spacious, clean and nice setting.
FACILITIES: Ample parking (RM2 per entry — basement and RM6 — valet, if you spend more than RM20 you can redeem parking voucher), free Wi-Fi, indoor air-condiioned area and semi-outdoor area.
THE LOO: Very clean
SERVICE: Friendly and fast
OVERALL VERDICT: A must-try