Ayam Penyet Surabaya offers a slew of Indonesian dishes, writes Ewe Paik Leong
AS I walk towards Ayam Penyet Surabaya, I see a massive colourful sign. A short climb leads to the sidewalk and I enter a no-frills dining hall with tables and chairs made of shiny metal.
The walls are covered with white tiles that reach halfway up, and the floor is paved with maple-coloured tiles. Rotating fans and pendant lights hang from the red ceiling, and the cashier’s wooden counter is situated beneath the spandrel. The smoking section is on the sidewalk.
A tudung-clad waitress hands me a one-sheet laminated menu. Only 13 dishes are listed. Ayam penyet, ayam bakar and lele (catfish) penyet come with rice. The other dishes are fried squid, sambal prawn and squid, oxtail soup, gado-gado, stir-fried spinach, fried tempe, stir-fried kailan, fried noodles (regular or with seafood) and fried rice (regular or with seafood).
For dessert, there are ais buah and ais campur. A short list of beverages with Indonesian names rounds off the menu. Examples are jus semangka (water melon juice), jus alpukat (avocado juice), es jeruk and soda gembira. For kids, there are milkshakes in following flavours: Orange, strawberry, melon and rose.
Gado-gado kicks off my meal. This Sundanese dish comprises veggies slathered with peanut dressing and topped with four pieces of emping crackers.
All the standard ingredients such as bean sprouts, cucumber, long beans, jicama, fried tofu and a boiled egg are present. Mildly spiced, the gravy has a nutty and earthy flavour. The bitter tinge of the emping contrasts well with the juicy vegetables.
Next, I dig into ayam bakar with rice. Sides for the dish include cucumber, brinjal, tempe (soya bean patties), fried tofu and vegetables. The well-marinated grilled chicken is tender and juicy, while the fried tofu has a paper-thin crunchy skin and soft crumbly insides. The crunch of the nutty-flavoured tempe adds a new textural dimension to the dish. The zesty sambal is simply ooh-la-la!
I try a piece of my wife’s lele penyet. Her dish is similar to my ayam bakar except that the grilled chicken is substituted by catfish which is smashed. The catfish is fresh and the absence of small bones makes this dish suitable for children.
Fried rice with seafood (squid rings and prawns) is next and the dish is accompanied by emping. The perfectly-cooked rice bursts like fireworks in an explosion of full-flavoured tastes through the use of the right blend of spices. As always, the emping gives this dish a wonderful Indonesian touch.
When my ais campur arrives, I am startled to see that it contains four squares of bread drizzled with red rose syrup and evaporated milk. There are also corn, red beans, cincau and squiggles of white jelly.
I recall having eaten es campur in Indonesia years ago but don’t recall the presence of bread. Perhaps this is Surabaya style? I wonder. Anyway, the first spoonful produces a weird mushy texture from the bread.
Bread has no place in ais campur. I remove the remaining bread squares with my spoon and continue to eat. Ah. the taste is much better except that the red beans can be softer. The syrup is not too sweet and overall this dessert makes an excellent palate-refresher.
After polishing off my dessert, I walk to the back to search for the toilet but a worker directs me to go upstairs. I climb a flight of steps and find myself in a stuffy split-level hall without customers.
The upper level is divided into kiosks by low walls. Each kiosk is furnished with low tables and cushions for guests to sit on the floor. The lower level is outfitted with regular furniture. When I pay the bill, the cashier mentions that takeaway lunch boxes for ayam penyet are available.
Ayam Penyet Surabaya (halal)
Address: No. 27 Jalan SG 3/19, Taman Sri Gombak, Batu Caves
Tel: 03-6177 8245
OPENING HOURS: 11am-11pm daily
GETTING THERE: Travel along MRR2 to get to Lebuh Utama of Taman Sri Gombak. Turn right to Jalan Lintang and right again to Jalan SG 3/11. The first left turn brings you to Jalan SG 3/18 where you can see the restaurant across the road.
WHAT’S COOKING: Indonesian fare
MUST TRY: Ayam bakar
YOU’LL PAY: About RM12 to RM15 per dish
ATMOSPHERE: Casual
THE LOO: Clean and everything works
SERVICE: Friendly and efficient
OVERALL VERDICT: Give it a try