Malaysians simply love their roti — roti canai in the morning and roti naan in the evening.
Ewe Paik Leong checks out several restaurants that offer the latter in the Klang Valley.
1. RSMY, NO. 13, JALAN MEDAN TUANKU, KUALA LUMPUR
Furnished with a mish-mash of green and orange chairs, this casual restaurant offers a variety of nasi biryani (chicken, mutton and prawn) and roti naan. The latter includes plain, cheese, garlic cheese, butter and garlic butter. I order cheese naan and it comes hot and filling the air with the aroma of mozzarella. Hot diggity! Every delightful bite involves tearing, stretching and chewing the elastic flatbread amid a delicate milky flavour. A hint of salt adds to the delight, and curry or dhall is not needed.
Rating: 4/5
2. TANDOORI HUT, JALAN 5, AMPANG UTAMA, AMPANG
It is actually a shabby stall located opposite a retailer of exclusive furniture. All items available are shown on a blue plastic sign, mounted high on the stall. While waiting for my chicken tandoori naan, I notice that the chicken is being basted continually as it is being grilled. My order comes piping hot and aroma-choked. The zesty-flavoured chicken tandoori leverages the garlic cheese naan - though delicious by itself - to a new standard of naan dining. However, lack of ambience prevents me from awarding full marks. Rating: 4/5
3. UNCLE K, GROUND FLOOR, PARADIGM MALL, PETALING JAYA
This restaurant offers similar fare to a typical Mamak restaurant but it is a more comfortable alternative. In its fairly stylish menu is a list of more than a dozen naan sets, which are available only from 3pm. Prices range from RM9.90 to RM19.30. My banana roti naan set comes with banana slices decorating its surface and a separate plate of chicken tandoori. In terms of texture, the banana tangos clumsily with the naan though the chicken tandoori is satisfactory. Rating: 3/5
4. MURNI DISCOVERY, JALAN METRO PERDANA 8, TAMAN USAHAWAN, KL
Renowned for its long operating hours, this restaurant boasts a smart-looking menu with long lists of noodles and fried rice, with a shorter list of nasi lemak, spaghetti, soup, chops, etc. Standouts among the types of naan available are raisin naan with ice-cream and naan Bombay. I go for a simple garlic and cheese naan instead. The naan is fluffy but not the fluffiest I’ve tasted. The garlic and cheese pair well but it is not great. Rating: 3/5
5. SUZI CORNER, LORONG AMPANG ULU, AMPANG
This is a hawker centre that attracts many expats because of its economical steaks. However, its naan stall also draws the late-supper crowds. Apart from the usual types of naan, there are also fish naan, pizza naan and sardine naan. My cheese naan is served with chicken curry as requested. Only standard cheese has been used and the fluffy naan tastes sweet on first bite. However, after more chews, milky and yeasty flavours emerge. The chicken curry, infused with the flavours of garam masala, plays its supporting role admirably.
Rating: 4/5
6. NZ CURRY HOUSE, PINGGIRAN MUTIARA UTAMA, MUTIARA GOMBAK, KL
The restaurant features standard furniture and menu light boxes on its walls. A cardboard menu features long lists under Roti, Thosai, Fried Rice and Fried Noodles. There are more than a dozen types of naan. I order garlic naan and tandoori chicken. By itself, the naan delivers a creamy flavour. A tad dreamy, too! When paired with the tandoori chicken, this naan combo demands to be respected. Rating: 4/5
7. RESTORAN ROYAL INDIA, PAVILION KL, KL
For all its classy and fine furnishings, I am surprised that the menu handed to me contains pages detached from its centre staples. There are no photos and all the North Indian classic dishes are available. Plain naan, butter naan, garlic naan, Peshawar naan and kheema naan are offered. My garlic naan comes in a basket minus the lentils or curry. So, I order a separate bowl of murg athraki (chicken cubes with onion, tomatoes, chopped ginger in a thick gravy with ginger flavour). To my delight, the naan is very soft and the flavourful murg athraki is tinged with a hint of spice which altogether makes the naan a winner. However, I have to deduct points for the high prices.
Rating: 4/5
8. NAAN CORNER, JALAN KERJA AIR LAMA 1, AMPANG
The restaurant’s plain exterior belies its elegant interior, which features cloth-wrapped chairs, cloth-covered tables and chandeliers. Established in 1983, it displays a sign proclaiming that it invented “roti bom”. The array of dishes available ranges from Western to Thai, Chinese and Pakistani. Choices for naan are limited to the regular varieties. I dig into garlic naan which turns out to be doughy, chewy and soft all at once, and the tandoori chicken packs a terrific flavour.
Rating: 4/5
9. NATHAN CORNER, JALAN 6/155, TAMAN INDUSTRI BUKIT OUG, KL
This 24-hour restaurant is heavily patronised by commuters of the nearby Awan Besar LRT station. Its menu offers more than 50 items, including a smattering of vegetarian dishes, and the naan list is long. Among the creative versions are fruit and cheese naan, honey naan, prawn naan, prawn and cheese naan, fish and cheese naan, mutton and cheese naan, and cashewnut naan. My cheese naan comes with cheese strands layered on top of it. This method of preparation gives the dish two textures, delivering a coarse-and-spongy mouthfeel. The milky flavour of the cheese is restrained because it has not melted.
Rating: 3/5
10. RESTORAN BERIANI ASIF, JALAN PADANG WALTER GRENIER, KL
Tucked in an old quarter of Bukit Bintang, this restaurant sports an elegant interior that is matched by a striking red menu. More than 50 food items are divided into biryani, beef, lamb, chicken, vegetables and naan. The garlic cheese naan springs a surprise as it’s served in triangular pieces arranged in a circle. More than garlic has gone into the naan as indicated by the greenish and reddish specks on its surface. Upon first bite, my taste buds yell, “Fiery hot! This naan’s hard to beat!” The chicken curry can be dispensed with. Rating: 5/5